The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Hosted by climber, nutritionist, and mindset coach, Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest, including pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community. You’ll learn how to train for climbing, how to fuel yourself well for climbing, and mindset strategies to help you perform well on the wall and have a great time doing it. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something from these conversations, or at the very least, get really stoked to climb and train.

Episodes

Oct 30, 2019

1hr 40 min

Trainer Matt Pincus does a full 1.5 hr session with 5.11 climber, Hayley Thomas, and gives her a clear plan for how to improve her climbing.

Oct 23, 2019

1hr 20 min

Rachel Briggs tells us how her climbing's improved while raising 2 young children, and how she navigates the physical & emotional challenges of motherhood.

Oct 17, 2019

1hr 9 min

I talk with trainer Matt Pincus about how to project routes and boulders more effectively and efficiently so you can send more quickly.

Oct 2, 2019

1hr 7 min

I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about a simple yet effective finger strength protocol that requires no weights or pulleys.

Sep 9, 2019

1hr 22 min

I talk with Charlie Manganiello and Alex Bridgewater of ClimbStrong.com about the most common mistakes they see climbers making with their training.

Aug 23, 2019

1hr 10 min

I talk with James Lucas about how he became a much stronger boulderer just by climbing outside more and learning how to project more efficiently.

Aug 12, 2019

1hr 22 min

In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent elbow injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.

Jul 24, 2019

1hr 27 min

I talk with Josh Larson, Head Coach of the US National Climbing Team, about how USA Climbing is helping to prepare athletes for World Cups and the Olympics.

Jun 28, 2019

1hr 7 min

I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about how to heal common tendon injuries in climbers using heavy isometric exercises and other surprising methodologies.

Jun 12, 2019

1hr 11 min

Professional climber Sierra Blair-Coyle talks about training for national & world cup comps, her modeling career, and how she deals with online negativity.

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