The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Hosted by climber, nutritionist, and mindset coach, Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest, including pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community. You’ll learn how to train for climbing, how to fuel yourself well for climbing, and mindset strategies to help you perform well on the wall and have a great time doing it. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something from these conversations, or at the very least, get really stoked to climb and train.

Episodes

Aug 12, 2019

1 hr 22 min

In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent elbow injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.

Aug 12, 2019

1 hr 22 min

Jul 24, 2019

1 hr 27 min

I talk with Josh Larson, Head Coach of the US National Climbing Team, about how USA Climbing is helping to prepare athletes for World Cups and the Olympics.

Jul 24, 2019

1 hr 27 min

Jun 28, 2019

1 hr 7 min

I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about how to heal common tendon injuries in climbers using heavy isometric exercises and other surprising methodologies.

Jun 28, 2019

1 hr 7 min

Jun 12, 2019

1 hr 11 min

Professional climber Sierra Blair-Coyle talks about training for national & world cup comps, her modeling career, and how she deals with online negativity.

Jun 12, 2019

1 hr 11 min

May 29, 2019

1 hr 12 min

Kyle Lindsay tells us how he went from a 5.12 plateau to sending his first 2 5.13a's by changing up his training. We also talk about the mental barriers to climbing 5.13a and how his diet helped him become stronger.

May 29, 2019

1 hr 12 min

May 15, 2019

1 hr 14 min

I talk with Jonathan about how he prepared for la Planta de Shiva and his epically pumped send of it. He also asks me about my contrasting experience of climbing in Spain, wherein I failed to send my own project.

May 15, 2019

1 hr 14 min

Apr 2, 2019

1 hr 10 min

Our TrainingBeta Instagram Manager, Shaina Savoy, talks about how she went from 12a to 13a in 6 months and how she tames negative self-talk while climbing.

Apr 2, 2019

1 hr 10 min

Mar 26, 2019

1 hr 10 min

Climbing coach and guide John Kettle talks about how he improved his technique and strength to break a decade+ plateau from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b in a very short time.

Mar 26, 2019

1 hr 10 min

Mar 18, 2019

1 hr 14 min

In this interview, Zachary Lesch-Huie from the Access Fund discusses all the negative behaviors we engage in that threaten climbing access and the enjoyment of others. We talk about dogs, noise, crowds, poop, pee, erosion, kids, and how we can all do better.

Mar 18, 2019

1 hr 14 min

Feb 27, 2019

1 hr 15 min

In this podcast interview, life coach Remy Franklin talks about how to prioritize your life goals and identify the actions you need to take to be successful.

Feb 27, 2019

1 hr 15 min

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