The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Hosted by climber, nutritionist, and mindset coach, Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest, including pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community. You’ll learn how to train for climbing, how to fuel yourself well for climbing, and mindset strategies to help you perform well on the wall and have a great time doing it. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something from these conversations, or at the very least, get really stoked to climb and train.

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Episodes

Wednesday Aug 01, 2018

In this interview I talk with 38-year-old full-time electrician, Leif Gasch, about how he went through 5 training cycles with some of the best trainers in the world, and finally landed on a training program that allowed him to send his first 5.14b.

Wednesday Jul 25, 2018

In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about using blood flow restriction training to help heal injuries and to maintain strength during performance phases.

Wednesday Jun 27, 2018

In this interview I talk with 3x Bouldering Nationals Champ, Nathaniel Coleman, about how he stays positive during comps and how he trains for climbing.

Wednesday May 02, 2018

In this interview I talk with American Ninja Warrior hero and pro climber, Meagan Martin, about how she juggles climbing and ANW with modeling and coaching.

Wednesday Apr 25, 2018

Dr. Kate Bennett is a PsyD psychologist in Denver who specializes in sports performance and eating disorders among athletes. You can see her vast array of qualifications and experience on her website. I asked her to be on the podcast because eating disorders and disordered eating behaviors run rampant in the climbing community, and I wanted her to chime in to give us a little perspective. 

Wednesday Apr 18, 2018

Wednesday Mar 28, 2018

In this interview, I talk with Kyra Condie about her current training program, including her weekly schedule, her exact hangboard and campus board routines, how she does bouldering circuits, and her thoughts on the 2018 USAC Nationals comps.

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