The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

TBP 026 :: Dr. Lisa Erikson on Preventing and Healing Injuries

 
 
Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale!
Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10. Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price. 
==>> Get The Discount
 
About Dr. Lisa Erikson
Dr. Lisa Erikson is a chiropractor out of Boulder, CO with a specialization in Sports Chiropractic and Chiropractic Biomechanics of Posture.
She works specifically with climbers, skiers, tennis players, and runners, among other athletes to fix them up when they have injuries and to teach them how to care for their injuries on their own. Dr. Lisa runs the medical for the USAClimbing Sport Climbing Championships, Speed Climbing Championships, and Bouldering Championships.
Her new book, Climbing Injuries Solved, helps us learn how to prevent and manage injuries from climbing. An avid multisport athlete, Dr. Lisa competed in collegiate running, cycling, and nordic skiing. A trail runner, ultrarunner, climber, and nordic skier, Dr. Lisa is passionate about making sure athletes are not held back from doing the sports they love.
She's got quite the long list of athletic accomplishments, as well as helpful resources on her website, www.lifesportchiro.com.
What We Talked About
How to recognize and treat finger injuries
Self-care for finger, hand, forearm injuries
The truth about ice, and why immersion baths are the best
How often we should be doing self-care to stay injury-free
When to know if you should go to a doctor
Links We Mentioned
Dr. Lisa Erikson's website: LifeSportChiro.com
New book, Climbing Injuries Solved, at ClimbingInjuriesSolved.com
Youtube videos at YouTube.com/LifeSportChiro 
Training Programs for You
Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Thanks for listening!

TBP 025:: Steve Maisch

About Steve Maisch
 
Steve Maisch is a local SLC strong man and renowned training guru. If you’ve ever run into Steve at the cliff, you know how humble and unassuming he is. Once he pulls onto the wall though, his immense power and strength speak for themselves. He makes very hard moves look easy. Clearly, his training works, and not only for himself. He's had awesome success training other people as a side project of his.
What We Talked About
How he went from climbing V10 to V13 using a 6-foot wall in his basement
What weight training is beneficial for climbers and why
How to train for bouldering as opposed to route climbing
Circuit training on a bouldering wall
The best way to train finger strength
Links We Mentioned
Steve Maisch's website: SteveMaischTraining.com/
Steve's Training Program
This is the training program Steve laid out in the episode for your reference! A big thanks to Steve for putting this together. You'll have to listen to the episode for more details, but this is the basic structure. 
Four week block with emphasis on strength:
 
 
Four week block with emphasis on strength endurance:
 
Training Programs for You
Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Thanks for listening!

TBP 024::Hazel Findlay on Humility and Being Brave

Date: June 10th, 2015
About Hazel Findlay
By the time she was 23, Hazel Findlay had made a name for herself as the first woman to send E9 (basically 5.13d but with death fall potential). The British phenom can been seen in videos doing sketchy climbing way above her bolt or gear with seemingly no fear. She started climbing at the age of 7 with her dad, quickly moved up the ranks as a comp climber, and then eventually followed her heart to outdoor climbing, where she's now traveled the globe (Morocco, United States, Australia, to name a few) to climb in all different styles.
I wanted to ask her about how she trains, but she told me right off the bat that she doesn't train ;) So this interview is mostly about her mental game, how she's planning to help other climbers with their own confidence, and we talk about her recent shoulder surgery.
What We Talked About
How she stays present and keeps a positive attitude on challenging climbs
Being a woman who's doing things only men have done before
Shoulder surgery
How she stays humble in the face of hard projects
Her plan to help others with their own climbing
Links We Mentioned
Hazel Findlay's website: HazelFindlayClimbing.com
Book on getting and staying in the "zone": Flow In Sports by Susan Jackson
Training Programs for You
Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
 
Thanks for listening!

TBP 023 :: Arno Ilgner on Overcoming Fear and Ego in Climbing

About Arno Ilgner
Arno Ilgner is known in the climbing community for his work helping people overcoming fears and be overall mentally stronger. He began climbing and quickly realized that the mental aspect of it was paramount to sending hard climbs. So he started studying up, and resonated with the Warrior's Way philosophy he found in the Carlo Castaneda books about Don Juan.
He started applying those tenets to climbing, and soon had an entire program built upon them. He now has books, clinics, and a dense blog devoted to helping you find peace, strength, and bravery in your climbing. I was honored to interview Arno Ilgner and really delve in to how he changes people's perceptions and fears in climbing.
What We Talked About
Overcoming fear of falling
How to stay present and not psych ourselves out on climbs
Overcoming fear of failing (and fear of succeeding)
How to deal with our big egos getting in the way
Exactly how he trains people in his clinics
Links We Mentioned
Arno's website: WarriorsWay.com
Training Programs for You
Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
 
Thanks for listening!

TBP 022: Bill Ramsey on Sending 14b at Age 54

Date: May 27th, 2015
About Bill Ramsey
 
Bill Ramsey is a legend among climbers, having put up classic first ascents in the Red River Gorge years ago such as Omaha Beach (14a), Golden Boy (13b), and many others. He's 55 years old and he just sent his 3-year project at the Cathedral near St. George, UT, called "Golden for A Moment" (5.14b). 
5.14b is about as hard as Bill has ever climbed, even in his 20's and 30's, so with such a huge accomplishment under his belt, I wanted to ask him some questions.  
What We Talked About
staying motivated after 100's of attempts
his 14-hour training days
whether his training style has changed as he gets older
how he climbs and trains as a full-time philosophy professor at UNLV
how he eats for training and loses weight for sending
"The Pain Box" - his article on suffering and climbing
learning from the failures
Links We Mentioned
Bill's "The Day I Sent Golden" post on EveningSends.com
Bill's "Pain Box" Article: PDF 
Training Programs for You
Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Photo Credit
Photo of Bill Ramsey by Mike Call
 
Thanks for listening!

TBP 021:: Alex Puccio on Training, Bodyweight, and Crowdfunding

About Alex Puccio
Alex "The Pucc" Puccio is the strongest female American boulderer, and the most accomplished female American bouldering competitor. She's won ABS Nationals 9 times, and has medaled 13 times in Bouldering World Cup events since 2009. Her goal this year is to be the overall IFSC World Cup Bouldering champ and to climb V15.
She was the 4th woman to climb V14 (Jade and then Wheel of Chaos in Rocky Mountain), she's climbed 7 V13's, and she's done all of this in the past year. Naturally, I wanted to know how she went from climbing V12 to crushing V14 in such a short amount of time, so we talked all about how her training, diet, and mental game have changed recently.
What We Talked About
Exactly how she trains on a weekly basis
Exactly how Justen Sjong is helping her improve her mental game
Why she doesn't have enough sponsor money, and what she's doing about it
How she lost weight, and whether or not she's anorexic
What she thinks about performance enhancing drugs
Lots more - she's very honest and open
Links We Mentioned
Alex's RallyMe crowdfunding campaign: Support Her
Alex's Facebook page
She often posts training videos on Instagram @alex_puccio89
New short film of her taking a break from comp climbing and doing V13's outside, "Switching Gears"
Discount on The Best Chalk Ever
Alex Puccio loves FrictionLabs chalk, and so do we. This chalk really does make a difference - it's no joke. Go to www.frictionlabs.com/trainingbeta for a special discount to try it out for yourself.
Training Programs for You
Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
Please Review Us on iTunes!
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music
Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 
Thanks for listening!

TBP 020 :: Alex Barrows on Training for His First 5.14d

About Alex Barrows
I met Alex Barrows in Rodellar in 2011 when he introduced himself as the Duke of Barrows, which we believed for several hours. It would've been so cool if that had been true, but alas. He's just a British PhD student at Sheffield University with a hilarious sense of humor. He's also really strong, despite his rigorous school schedule and lack of good weather where he lives.
When I met Alex, he was trying really hard on a 14a for weeks. Then I saw him a couple years later in the Red River Gorge, where I immediately noticed he'd improved dramatically. He was onsighting 13+ and sending 14s like it was his job. Then I heard he sent Era Vella (5.14d in Spain) this spring, '15, and I had to know how he was improving so much.
This interview is an extremely detailed account of his training plan and philosophies, with some charming British humor thrown in there.
What we talked about:
Exactly how and when he trained for Era Vella
How his training has evolved over the years, and how he learned so much about it
How he stays so psyched to train 6 days a week
What he does to avoid injuries, and whether or not he climbs through them when he has them
All about circuit training
How he finds time and money to project things in different countries, despite being a full-time student
How he reached his sending weight, and whether or not climbers should always be thin
Things We Mentioned
Alex's epic training plan and philosophies: Alex Barrows Training PDF
He credits Tom Randall (of Wide Boyz fame) for a lot of his training knowledge: tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com
Fix Your Own Arms with ArmAid
If you haven't heard of the ArmAid yet, definitely give it a look-see. It's a nutcracker-type self-massage tool for your poor, overused arms, and it actually works.
We wrote a glowing review about it here.  You can learn more on their website at ArmAid.com.
 
Training Programs for You
Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
If you'd like to place an ad on the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
Please Review Us on iTunes!
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music
Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 
Thanks for listening!

TBP 019 :: Eric Hörst on Training Methods for Adults and Kids

About Eric Hörst
Eric Hörst is a well-known climbing trainer, having written some of the first books on the topic, including How to Climb 5.12, Training for Climbing, and Maximum Climbing. He's a 50-year old climber who still climbs as hard as ever (5.13 redpoints) due to his smart training methods, which he's catered to himself to fit his mature body. His 2 boys are living proof of his training methods, regularly climbing 5.14's by the time they were each 11 years old. Eric keeps an active blog on training for climbing, aptly named www.trainingforclimbing.com. He also writes regularly for www.nicros.com.
What we talked about:
How to most efficiently train for different kinds of climbing
How his training has evolved over the years, and how he learned so much about it
Whether or not we should run to train for routes (the burning question)
How his kids train for climbing, and how they've become such balanced athletes
When to train and when to climb, and how to not overdo it
Related Links
Eric Hörst's website: www.trainingforclimbing.com
His work at Nicros.com
Support The Podcast
Check out the newRoute Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
If you'd like to place an ad on the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
Listen and Review on iTunes
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music
Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 
Thanks for listening!
 

Training Q&A Session #2

This is a recording of our second live Q&A call dedicated to training for climbing. Answering the questions are:
Kris Peters - Climbing Trainer
Neely Quinn - Nutritionist and 5.13 climber
Seth Lytton - Training geek and 5.14 climber
Hope you can join us for the next one! The sound quality isn't super great on this because it's an actual phone call, but we're working on it!

TBP 018 :: Mike Doyle on Training for Necessary Evil, and Having A Career While Still Climbing Hard

Direct Download: LINKDate: March 30th, 2015
About Mike Doyle
Mike Doyle is a full time(+) computer programmer in his late 30's who crushes hard rock climbs. He's a Vegas local who has devoted the last several seasons to the route Necessary Evil (classic 5.14c) in the Virgin River Gorge, and finally sent it this past spring.
He's Canadian, and helped train Sean McColl back when he was training youth competition climbers and competing himself. He's climbed all over the world, having sent numerous 5.14's, all while ambitiously pursuing a career he loves.
What we talked about:
How he efficiently trained for Necessary Evil
How his training has evolved over the years
The creative ways he manages to work so many hours AND climb so much outside
His thoughts on diet and body weight, and how he lost weight for Necessary Evil
Related Links
Mike Doyle's website: www.mikedoyle.ca
Video about Mike Doyle's persistence on Necessary Evil
Support The Podcast
Check out the Bouldering Strength and Power program for boulderers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
Listen and Review on iTunes
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music
Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 
Thanks for listening!