The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

TBP 020 :: Alex Barrows on Training for His First 5.14d

About Alex Barrows
I met Alex Barrows in Rodellar in 2011 when he introduced himself as the Duke of Barrows, which we believed for several hours. It would've been so cool if that had been true, but alas. He's just a British PhD student at Sheffield University with a hilarious sense of humor. He's also really strong, despite his rigorous school schedule and lack of good weather where he lives.
When I met Alex, he was trying really hard on a 14a for weeks. Then I saw him a couple years later in the Red River Gorge, where I immediately noticed he'd improved dramatically. He was onsighting 13+ and sending 14s like it was his job. Then I heard he sent Era Vella (5.14d in Spain) this spring, '15, and I had to know how he was improving so much.
This interview is an extremely detailed account of his training plan and philosophies, with some charming British humor thrown in there.
What we talked about:
Exactly how and when he trained for Era Vella
How his training has evolved over the years, and how he learned so much about it
How he stays so psyched to train 6 days a week
What he does to avoid injuries, and whether or not he climbs through them when he has them
All about circuit training
How he finds time and money to project things in different countries, despite being a full-time student
How he reached his sending weight, and whether or not climbers should always be thin
Things We Mentioned
Alex's epic training plan and philosophies: Alex Barrows Training PDF
He credits Tom Randall (of Wide Boyz fame) for a lot of his training knowledge: tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com
Fix Your Own Arms with ArmAid
If you haven't heard of the ArmAid yet, definitely give it a look-see. It's a nutcracker-type self-massage tool for your poor, overused arms, and it actually works.
We wrote a glowing review about it here.  You can learn more on their website at ArmAid.com.
 
Training Programs for You
Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
If you'd like to place an ad on the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
Please Review Us on iTunes!
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music
Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 
Thanks for listening!

TBP 019 :: Eric Hörst on Training Methods for Adults and Kids

About Eric Hörst
Eric Hörst is a well-known climbing trainer, having written some of the first books on the topic, including How to Climb 5.12, Training for Climbing, and Maximum Climbing. He's a 50-year old climber who still climbs as hard as ever (5.13 redpoints) due to his smart training methods, which he's catered to himself to fit his mature body. His 2 boys are living proof of his training methods, regularly climbing 5.14's by the time they were each 11 years old. Eric keeps an active blog on training for climbing, aptly named www.trainingforclimbing.com. He also writes regularly for www.nicros.com.
What we talked about:
How to most efficiently train for different kinds of climbing
How his training has evolved over the years, and how he learned so much about it
Whether or not we should run to train for routes (the burning question)
How his kids train for climbing, and how they've become such balanced athletes
When to train and when to climb, and how to not overdo it
Related Links
Eric Hörst's website: www.trainingforclimbing.com
His work at Nicros.com
Support The Podcast
Check out the newRoute Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
If you'd like to place an ad on the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
Listen and Review on iTunes
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music
Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 
Thanks for listening!
 

Training Q&A Session #2

This is a recording of our second live Q&A call dedicated to training for climbing. Answering the questions are:
Kris Peters - Climbing Trainer
Neely Quinn - Nutritionist and 5.13 climber
Seth Lytton - Training geek and 5.14 climber
Hope you can join us for the next one! The sound quality isn't super great on this because it's an actual phone call, but we're working on it!

TBP 018 :: Mike Doyle on Training for Necessary Evil, and Having A Career While Still Climbing Hard

Direct Download: LINKDate: March 30th, 2015
About Mike Doyle
Mike Doyle is a full time(+) computer programmer in his late 30's who crushes hard rock climbs. He's a Vegas local who has devoted the last several seasons to the route Necessary Evil (classic 5.14c) in the Virgin River Gorge, and finally sent it this past spring.
He's Canadian, and helped train Sean McColl back when he was training youth competition climbers and competing himself. He's climbed all over the world, having sent numerous 5.14's, all while ambitiously pursuing a career he loves.
What we talked about:
How he efficiently trained for Necessary Evil
How his training has evolved over the years
The creative ways he manages to work so many hours AND climb so much outside
His thoughts on diet and body weight, and how he lost weight for Necessary Evil
Related Links
Mike Doyle's website: www.mikedoyle.ca
Video about Mike Doyle's persistence on Necessary Evil
Support The Podcast
Check out the Bouldering Strength and Power program for boulderers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
Listen and Review on iTunes
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music
Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 
Thanks for listening!
 

TBP 017 :: Adam Ondra on All Things Training

I was honored that Adam Ondra took time out of his very busy day (he's a full time student and trains for climbing a LOT) to let me pick his brain about climbing and training. I hope you like this interview!
About Adam Ondra
He doesn't really need much of an introduction, does he? He's debatably the strongest overall climber in the world, having the most impressive climbing resume I've ever even imagined. Here's what his Wikipedia page has to say about him.
He is the only athlete to have won the World Championships in two disciplines, lead and bouldering. In addition, he succeeded to win both medals in the same year, during the 2014 edition. He has also a similar record in the World Cup, being the only athlete to have won the World Cup in two disciplines, lead in 2009 and bouldering in 2010.
As of 7 December 2014, he climbed 1,162 routes between 8a (5.13b) and 9b+ (5.15c), of which 3 were at 9b+ (5.15c) and 548 were onsights, including 3 onsights at 9a (5.14d) and 15 onsights at 8c+ (5.14c).[1] He is the first climber to have redpointed a route with a proposed grade of 9b+ (5.15c) (Change, Flatanger, 4 October 2012)[2] and the only climber to have redpointed three 9b+ (5.15c) routes.
And that's not even including his bouldering accomplishments, which include 202 boulders between V11 and V16. Jeeeeez...
Here's what we talked about:
How he trained to win both bouldering and route climbing world championships
How he used to train before he started training with Patxi
How he manages to go to school full time and climb 5.15c
The prospect of climbing 5.15d
His thoughts on diet and body weight
Related Links
Adam isn't online of his own accord (he's a little busy), but www.adamondra.com is a fan page that someone else made for him...
Support The Podcast
Check out the new Bouldering Strength and Power program for boulderers of all abilities!
Our other training programs are pretty cool, too. Check 'em out on the Training Programs Page.
If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
Listen and Review on iTunes
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music
Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 
Photo
Photo credit goes to Dario Rodriguez of Desnivel.com
Thanks for listening!

TBP 016 :: Steph Davis on Training for Alpine, Sport Climbing, Free Soloing, FFAs, and Veganism

I got to sit down with the great Steph Davis the other day and chat about her training for climbing, her vast accomplishments, her FFAs, her free soloing exploits, her diet, her wing suit flying, and all kinds of other stuff.
About Steph Davis
I can't really do her resumé justice, so I'm just going to let her Wikipedia page do it for me.
Stephanie "Steph" Davis (born 1973) is an American rock climber, BASE jumper and wingsuit flyer. She is one of the world's leading female climbers, having completed some of the hardest routes in the world. She is the only woman to have free solo climbed a 5.11 climb, the first woman to summit all the peaks of the Fitzroy Range in Patagonia, the second woman to free climb El Capitan in a day, the first woman to free climb the Salathė Wall on El Capitan, the first woman to free solo The Diamond on Long's Peak in Colorado, and the first woman to summit Torre Egger.
Here's what we talked about:
How she trained for her free solo ascents on the Diamond
How she trained for her alpine ascents in Patagonia
How she trains for Rifle
Whether or not FFA's really matter
Her vegan diet
Related Links
Steph Davis site at www.highinfatuation.com
Support The Podcast
Check out the new Bouldering Strength and Power program for boulderers of all abilities!
Our other training programs are pretty cool, too. Check 'em out on the Training Programs Page.
If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
Listen and Review on iTunes
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music
Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 
 
Thanks for listening!
 

Free Q&A Webinar-1: Kris Peters & Seth Lytton.mp3

This is a recording of the free Q&A webinar that we hosted on 2-2-15. Chris and Seth answered training questions from anyone who called. Questions are focused on general training and specific questions about the training programs offered on TrainingBeta.

TBP 015 :: Heather Weidner on Trying Hard and Sticking with Projects

It's been FOREVER since I published a podcast episode and I'm really sorry for the inconsistency! My surgery and ensuing weirdness has had me away from working very much at all, but I'm hoping to start putting podcasts up again on a regular basis.
About Heather
Alright, so this episode is with my friend, Heather Weidner (nee Robinson), who is a badass sport and trad climber, having redpointed Stockboy's Revenge (5.14b) in Rifle this summer and Must'a Been High (5.13c R) in Eldorado Canyon in Colorado soon after.
She and her husband, Chris Weidner, are full time climbers living the dream, although Heather was a veterinarian for about 5 years before that. When I think of Heather, I think of a very sweet woman with a bullish determination to climb her projects. I also think of kneebarring, since she's a pro at it.
Here's what we talked about:
Her lack of fear and how that helps her climbing
Whether kneebarring is "cheating"
How her vegetarian diet affects her climbing
Her longest (time) project and how she kept trying even when she felt defeated
How she makes it as a full time climber
Related Links
Heather's site at www.heatherclimbs.com
Heather's article for TrainingBeta, "Headstrong"
Support The Podcast
Check out the new Bouldering Strength and Power program for boulderers of all abilities!
Our other training programs are pretty cool, too. Check 'em out on the Training Programs Page.
If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
Listen and Review on iTunes
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music
Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 
 
Thanks for listening!
 

TBP 014 :: Physical Therapist Jared Vagy on Injury Prevention and Treatment

 
About Dr. Jared Vagy
I am so excited to put this podcast out! Holy crap. This is some MUCH NEEDED info for climbers of all kinds, and I really hope you listen to the whole thing. Jared Vagy is a PhD physical therapist who also happens to be a rock climber who's had a lot of injuries.
He works with athletes of all kinds and does special phone/skype and in-person assessments and sessions with climbers all over the world. He's written a book just for us on how to prevent and treat common climber injuries, and he's got a lot more info for us up his sleeve. He's super passionate about educating us, and I'm so happy I found him!
He's dissected our contorted movements and figured out how we can prevent finger, elbow, and shoulder injuries.
What We Talked About
Finger injuries 
Elbow injuries
Shoulder injuries (my favorite!)
What we're doing wrong on the wall to cause these injuries
How to properly warm up before climbing
Related Links
Jared's site at www.theclimbingdoctor.com
Jared's book, The Ultimate Climber 
Support The Podcast
Check out the new Bouldering Strength and Power program for boulderers of all abilities! 
Our other training programs are pretty cool, too. Check 'em out on the Training Programs Page. 
If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
Listen and Review on iTunes
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music
Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 
 
Thanks for listening!
 

TBP 013 :: Hans Florine on Speed Climbing The Nose and Training for It

 
About Hans Florine
This is from Wikipedia because I couldn't possibly sum this up any better. Hans Florine has a long and storied history on El Cap, and in particular on The Nose. Here goes:
Hans Florine (born June 18, 1964)[3][4][5] is an American rock climber, who together withAlex Honnold holds the Speed Climb World Record for climbing The Nose of Yosemite’s El Capitan in 2:23:46 (2 hours, 23 minutes and 46 seconds), set on June 17, 2012[6] which broke the previous record of 2:36.45 set by Dean Potter and Sean Leary. Hans also previously held the same record with Yuji Hirayama for El Capitan in 2:37:05 (2 hours, 37 minutes and 5 seconds), set on October 12, 2008.[2] This broke their record of 2:43:33 set on July 2, 2008, which had broken the record that was set by the German "Huberbuam",Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber.[7] The two brothers climbed The Nose on October 8, 2007 in 2:45:45, breaking Hans' and Yuji's prior speed record.[8] El Capitan is traditionally climbed in three to five days.[9]The Nose route is 2,900 ft long (880 m) and features over 31 pitches of strenuous, exposed climbing.[9] Florine thus climbed The Nose at roughly 6 minutes per pitch. On July 30, 2005, Florine also completed a solo ascent of The Nose in just 11 hours and 41 minutes.[10] Solo ascents are characterized by climbing by yourself and require one person to do all the work.
Pretty impressive, huh? I wanted to know how he trained for such crazy shenanigans, and he kindly gave his time for an interview.
What We Talked About
His seriously amazing feats as a Yosemite and competition speed climber
His badass training sessions in the gym before work
How he trains for big walls and speed climbing
What he eats before and during big wall speed ascents
Whether or not he'll attempt another speed record on the Nose
A lot more
Related Links
Hans's site at www.hansflorine.com
Hans on Wikipedia (he's that good)
Hans with Yuji Hirayama on a previous record speed ascent of the Nose (VIDEO)
Support The Podcast
This podcast is made possible by the Training Programs on TrainingBeta. Check 'em out if you need some help sending!
If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
Listen and Review on iTunes
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music
Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 
Photo
Jim Thornburg
Thanks for listening!