The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

TBP 035 :: Isabelle Faus on Sending V14

About Isabelle Faus
Isabelle Faus is a 22 year-old boulderer out of Boulder, CO. (Yes, I know that a lot of my guests are from Boulder, but there are just so many amazing climbers here!) Isabelle climbed her first V14 in South Africa recently, and has done several V13's, including Nuthin' but Sunshine in a day. She also just started sport climbing and did her first 5.14a the other day. She'll tell you all about her climbing, training, and diet in this episode. 
What We Talked About
Her bouldering career highlights
How her coach as a child taught her so much about training
Her weekly schedule for workouts and climbing
Exactly what her workouts look like
How she makes it work without sponsors
How she stays injury-free
Lots more
Related Links
Isabelle on Instagram: @Fausey
Isabelle on Island.io
Training Programs for You
Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
FrictionLabs Discount
FrictionLabs (my favorite chalk company by far) is offering you a discount on their awesome chalk - woot!
Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
 
Thanks for listening!

TBP 034 :: Justen Sjong on Improving Your Mental Game

About Justen Sjong
Justen Sjong is a prolific climbing coach out of Colorado, who's also had a successful climbing career, having established up to 5.14a big walls with none other than Tommy Caldwell, and crushing 5.14 sport climbs across the globe. He currently works out of Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder and does online coaching via www.climbingsensei.com. He has a thing or two to say about climbers improving their mental game and becoming better climbers overall. 
What We Talked About
The difference between a climbing coach and a climbing trainer
When to say "take" on routes
How he coaches Alex Puccio
How to increase confidence, and why it's important
How your body language can influence your climbing performance
Lots more
Related Links
Justen's online climbing services: www.climbingsensei.com
Training Programs for You
Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
FrictionLabs Discount
FrictionLabs (my favorite chalk company by far) is offering you a discount on their awesome chalk - woot!
Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Photo Credit
Andrew Burr Photography
Thanks for listening!

TBP 033 :: Will Anglin on Training Efficiently

TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes Date: November 4th, 2015
(Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.)
About Will Anglin
 
Will Anglin is a 27 year-old climber and head climbing trainer at Earth Treks in Golden, CO. He minored in Exercise Physiology in college and is a certified personal trainer, and he's studied climbing training quite a bit. He trains people in person and online. One of the reasons I wanted to interview him is that he's not only a well-respected trainer, but also a prolific climber himself, having sent V13 and 5.14.
He has a lot to say about training, and this was a dense conversation (in the best way possible).
What we talked about:
The importance of strength training
Difference between strength and power
His weekly training schedule during 50-60 hour work weeks
Whether or not you should train to exhaustion
Why he thinks using a weight vest during campusing is "safer" than not
Who should be campusing
Why he does weighted pull ups and why you should maybe not
Things We Mentioned
Will's website
Tension Climbing (coming soon)
Will's article on finger strength training
I'm doing nutrition consults one-on-one with people again on a limited basis. If you're interested, email neely@trainingbeta.com
Discount on ArmAid
If you haven't heard of the ArmAid yet, definitely give it a look-see. It's a nutcracker-type self-massage tool for your poor, overused arms, and it actually works.
We wrote a glowing review about it here.  Use the code "climb" at checkout for a 10% discount!
 
Training Programs for You
Check out the Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
If you'd like to place an ad on the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
Please Review Us on iTunes!
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Photo Credit
Thanks to Matty Hong for the photo of Jon Cardwell.
Thanks for listening!
 

TBP 032 :: Nathan Drolet (Average Joe Climber) Trains Smart and Climbs Hard

Date: October 5th, 2015
Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale!
Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10. Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price. Holy cats.
==>> Get The Discount
About Nathan Drolet
 
We met Nathan Drolet in the Red River Gorge a couple years ago when his badass girlfriend, Natalie Hawley, was projecting 8 Ball while I was working on Snooker. We ran into them a lot over that season in the Red and in Chattanooga, where they now live. 
What I noticed about Nate is that he's a calm, collected, strong, solid climber. He was obviously dedicated to climbing, having moved to the Red to work at Miguel's so he could pursue it full time. He's climbed up to 5.14a and V11, and he won the 2011 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell. And he's a really nice guy.
When I asked you all a while back for suggestions for "everyday climbers" (ie not pros) whose training has paid off, several people suggested Nate, so of course I had to interview him to find out how he does it.
What We Talked About
How he stays strong living on the road
How he uses breathing to create power and to relax
How he trained back flagging
His new interest in lifting and how it's changed his climbing
Whether or not he runs and why
Diet 
Mental training
Training Programs for You
Check out the Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Thanks for listening!

TBP 031 :: Ben Moon on Training and Climbing Through The Decades

Direct Download: LINKDate: August 20th, 2015
About Ben Moon
Ben Moon is an iconic climber from England who's accomplished much in his 40-year climbing career. He's 49 years old and just sent 9a (5.14d) this year, after having put up the first of the same grade in 1990 ("Hubble" in France). He's bouldered up to V14, and he does all this while running a successful climbing company called Moon Climbing and raising a child with his wife. He also created the classic Moon Board and the Moon Fingerboard, designed for the stronger, more massochistic among us.
I wanted to talk to this legend about how he's achieved all of this, and he kindly granted me an interview. By the way, there are 2 Ben Moon's in the climbing world: this English Ben Moon and the videographer/climber Ben Moon who lives in the U.S. and recently made a video about Denali the dog.
What We Talked About
Here's what English Ben Moon and I talked about:
His history as a climber
Hubble, the first 8c+ ever, and how it got upgraded to 9a
Training for and sending 9a at age 49
How he trains in general
His thoughts on the Moon board and the Moon Fingerboard
Whether he's just genetically gifted or if he has to train hard
Training and projecting on a tight schedule
How he's doing on Northern Lights, another 9a
Related Links
Moon Climbing: www.moonclimbing.com
Video interview of Ben Moon on his recent 9a ascent of Rainshadow
Moon Climbing on Facebook
Training Programs for You
Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Thanks for listening!

TBP 030 :: Jon Cardwell on How He Climbs Hard Routes and Boulders

Direct Download: LINKDate: August 12th, 2015
 
(Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.)
About Jon Cardwell
 
Jon Cardwell is a 26 year-old Albuquerque native living in Boulder, Colorado, who climbs 5.14d and V15, along with being one of the top male bouldering competitors in the U.S. He's a sponsored climber and also holds jobs as a route setter and youth climbing coach at Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder.
I've been hearing all about him crushing Rifle and the Fortress this year, so we sat down and talked about how he trains for that, what he's psyched on right now, and his plans to go back to France this year and finally do Biographie. He's a super humble, sweet and well-spoken guy, and I really enjoyed this conversation with him.
What we talked about:
How he trained for The Game (V15)
How he trains for hard routes
His attempt at Biographie (5.15a) this spring, and what he'll do differently next trip
His successful Rifle season this year, including 5.14a onsights
His unconventional use of the hangboard and campus board
How he gives back as a coach
His thoughts on diet
Things We Mentioned
Jon's Instagram
Jon's Facebook
Discount on ArmAid
If you haven't heard of the ArmAid yet, definitely give it a look-see. It's a nutcracker-type self-massage tool for your poor, overused arms, and it actually works.
We wrote a glowing review about it here.  Use the code "climb" at checkout for a 10% discount!
 
Training Programs for You
Check out the Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
If you'd like to place an ad on the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
Please Review Us on iTunes!
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Photo Credit
Thanks to Matty Hong for the photo of Jon!
Thanks for listening!
 

TBP 029 :: Climbing Trainer Adam Macke on MAT and Weight Training

Date: July 29th, 2015
Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale!
Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10. Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price. Holy cats.
==>> Get The Discount
About Adam Macke
Adam Macke (pronounced "Mackey") is a climbing trainer out of Chattanooga, TN. He works with people out of High Point Climbing and Fitness, which is a pretty new gym downtown. Adam has been personal training people since the early 2000's, and uses weight training and Muscle Activation Technique (MAT) to unlock climbers' potential. He's also a climber of 8 years himself.
His methods with people in training for climbing are quite different than other trainers, so our conversation was pretty interesting and out of the box.
To find out more about him, go to www.mackefit.com.
What We Talked About
How he differs from other climbing trainers
What MAT is and how it's helped climbers
Why fingerboarding isn't the best way to train finger strength
And what to do instead
Why campusing isn't the best way to gain power
And what to do instead
Links We Mentioned
Adam Macke's website: mackefit.com
High Point Climbing: HighPointClimbing.com
Anvil Crash Pad Rental in Chattanooga: AnvilCrashPadRentals.com
New Awesome resource for Route setters: TickTapeTighten.com
Training Programs for You
Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Photo Credit
Photo of Adam Macke by Corey Wentz at www.coreywentz.com. Thank you, Corey!
Thanks for listening!

TBP 028 :: Neely Quinn on Nutrition for Climbers

About Neely Quinn
I (Neely Quinn) am a Nutrition Therapist and a 5.13 rock climber, owner of TrainingBeta, and someone who's obsessed over food, health, and climbing performance since 1999. I've helped thousands of people find their optimal diet, lose weight, and be the best athlete they can be. My nutrition work lives at www.neelyquinn.com.
As the host of the TrainingBeta podcast, I'm generally not the one in the spotlight in these interviews, but in this episode, I put my hide on the line and told you my opinions and advice about nutrition for climbers. 
What I Talked About
In this episode, I asked for questions from you guys before the episode and answered as many of them as I could before getting sick of hearing my own voice ;)
A good carb, protein, fat ratio for climbers
Whether intermittent fasting is good for climbers
Whether ketosis is good for climbers
Why healthy centenarians can eat grains but Paleo says they're bad for us
How sugar affects us, and how much we should eat
Blood type diet
Other stuff
Related Links
Neely's nutrition website: neelyquinn.com
Training Programs for You
Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Thanks for listening!

TBP 027 :: Kevin Jorgeson Talks about The Dawn Wall and Highballs

Date: July 9th, 2015
About Kevin Jorgeson
After the Dawn Wall, Kevin Jorgeson needs no introduction really. Even my grandmother knows his name (and I'm not joking about that). Before the Dawn Wall, I knew Kevin for his highball bouldering; I knew him as a bold, strong-headed climber. After his send of Ambrosia (55-ft V11 in Bishop), he wanted something different to challenge him, so he called up Tommy Caldwell and asked him if he needed a partner for the Dawn Wall.
What We Talked About
In this conversation, Kevin tells me his own Dawn Wall story, how he fought through the challenges and ultimately succeeded, how he trained for it, and what's next.
Which key pieces fell into place to let him send the Dawn Wall
The media blow-up about the Dawn Wall
How he skipped 14b & c and jumped to sending 14d
Why pitch 15 was so hard for him
How he dealt with the immense pressure up there
Specific training he did for the Dawn Wall
Why he switched from highballing to bigwalling
Related Links
Kevin Jorgeson's website: KevinJorgeson.com
Kevin climbing Ambrosia
Kevin climbing pitch 15
Training Programs for You
Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Thanks for listening!

TBP 026 :: Dr. Lisa Erikson on Preventing and Healing Injuries

 
 
Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale!
Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10. Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price. 
==>> Get The Discount
 
About Dr. Lisa Erikson
Dr. Lisa Erikson is a chiropractor out of Boulder, CO with a specialization in Sports Chiropractic and Chiropractic Biomechanics of Posture.
She works specifically with climbers, skiers, tennis players, and runners, among other athletes to fix them up when they have injuries and to teach them how to care for their injuries on their own. Dr. Lisa runs the medical for the USAClimbing Sport Climbing Championships, Speed Climbing Championships, and Bouldering Championships.
Her new book, Climbing Injuries Solved, helps us learn how to prevent and manage injuries from climbing. An avid multisport athlete, Dr. Lisa competed in collegiate running, cycling, and nordic skiing. A trail runner, ultrarunner, climber, and nordic skier, Dr. Lisa is passionate about making sure athletes are not held back from doing the sports they love.
She's got quite the long list of athletic accomplishments, as well as helpful resources on her website, www.lifesportchiro.com.
What We Talked About
How to recognize and treat finger injuries
Self-care for finger, hand, forearm injuries
The truth about ice, and why immersion baths are the best
How often we should be doing self-care to stay injury-free
When to know if you should go to a doctor
Links We Mentioned
Dr. Lisa Erikson's website: LifeSportChiro.com
New book, Climbing Injuries Solved, at ClimbingInjuriesSolved.com
Youtube videos at YouTube.com/LifeSportChiro 
Training Programs for You
Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Thanks for listening!