The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

TBP 046 :: Neely Quinn on Weight Loss for Climbers

About Neely Quinn
Neely is your host for the podcast every week, but she's also a practicing nutrition therapist, and has been since about 2007. She's helped hundreds of people lose weight and get closer to optimal health. She takes an individualized approach to nutrition, and in this podcast episode she tackles weight loss for climbers and how to approach it properly (if you need to approach it at all). 
Weight Loss for Climbers
Calories
Carbs
Food Sensitivities
When to see a doctor
Overtraining
Want to work with Neely one-on-one?
Her nutrition coaching page: www.trainingbeta.com/nutrition-coaching
Email her at neely@trainingbeta.com

TBP 045 :: Ethan Pringle on Jumbo Love 15b, The Nest V15, and Depression

About Ethan Pringle
Ethan Pringle is a 29 year-old professional rock climber who's had immense success in the competition scene as well as on real rock. He made the 2nd ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b) and has done a few V14s and is working on his first V15 (The Nest). He's an all around strong, determined climber, and I wanted to know what makes him tick.
What We Talked About
How he prepared for Jumbo Love
How he stayed motivated on Jumbo Love for 7 years
How depression has affected him and his climbing
Getting over psychological plateaus
Future goals
Ethan Pringle Links
Ethan on Jumbo Love (Video)
Ethan Pringle on Instagram
Ethan Pringle on Facebook

TBP 044 :: Matt Helliker on Training for Alpine Climbing

About Matt Helliker
Matt Helliker is a notable alpinist who's done quite a few first ascents. He's originally from England, but now lives, climbs, and guides in Chamonix, France. As an ice climber, a mixed climber, a trad climber, a sport climber, and a boulderer, I was really interested in knowing how Matt trains to stay strong for it all. You can find out more about him and his first ascents on his athlete page at Patagonia and on his personal site. 
What We Talked About
What winter alpine climbs entail
How he trains for it all
Climbing 5.14a
Hard alpine ascents in remote areas
Training 7 days a week
Why it's hard to do it all
Related Links
Video trailer of Citadel, a film about Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey in Alaska 
Matt Helliker's personal site: matthelliker.com
Matt Helliker on Instagram
Matt Helliker on Twitter
Matt Helliker on Facebook

TBP 043 :: Neely Explains the Ketogenic Diet

I've been hearing more and more about the ketogenic diet in the climbing world. For instance, Dave MacLeod and Neil Gresham have had success with it and I expect that a lot of people will want to try it for themselves.
I researched the diet quite a bit a few years back and then experimented with it on my own. I've helped nutrition clients onboard to a ketogenic diet, and I've talked with a lot of people about the difficulties and successes they've had with it.
It's a really interesting topic, partly because everyone is so different that it may or may not work for you. It didn't work for me (for reasons I'll explain in the episode), but it may work for you. And who knows - if I'd done things differently it may have worked for me.
In this episode, I explain:
What the ketogenic diet isWhat the macronutrient ratios areHow to know if you're actually in ketosisWhy people like the ketogenic dietThe difference between the ketogenic diet and Paleo/PrimalWhat foods are pretty much no-no's on the dietMy experience and mistakes on the dietMy goals are to help you understand it a little better and maybe to help you avoid some common mistakes if it's something you're interested in trying.
I'd love to know what your personal experience with it has been, and if you have any questions about it just leave them in the comments below! Thanks for listening :)

TBP 042 :: David Mason on Training for V14

About David Mason
David Mason is a British boulderer who's climbed up to V13/14 (King of Limbs in South Africa) and many boulders between V10 and V13. In 2014, he managed to send 20 boulder problems between V11 and V13 during a 17-day trip to Vastervik, Sweden. He's a Senior Coach at The Climbing Works, a gym in Sheffield, England, and he does personal training/coaching for people there. He's known for his relentless training, and that's what we talked about in this interview. 
What We Talked About
Dealing with failure
Shoulder dislocation and injury
3-a-day training sessions
Training for King of Limbs (V13/14)
His exact training schedule
How he'd change his training schedule for someone not as strong
Related Links
Video of David Mason on King of Limbs
Article and videos of his trip to Sweden in Rock & Ice
David Mason on Instagram
David Mason's website and photography
Training Programs for You
Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

TBP 041 :: Matt Lloyd and His Climbing/CrossFit Hybrid Gym

Date: January 27th, 2016
About Matt Lloyd
Matt Lloyd is a long-time friend of my husband, Seth, having started climbing on the same team in Denver about 15 years ago. He's known for his bold R and X-rated ascents, and now for having started a small gym in Denver called Mountain Strong that's devoted to training for climbing.
What We Talked About
How he prepares for free solosHis hardest sendsWhy he built a gym devoted to training for climbingHow olympic lifts and crossfit workouts help climbersHow to build fitnessThe future of training for climbingRelated Links
Matt Lloyd's gym: www.mountainstrongdenver.comArticle on Climbing Mag by Matt about overcoming fearTraining Programs for You
 

TBP 040 :: Nina Williams on Training for V13, Comps, and Diet

About Nina Williams
Nina Williams is a boulderer (and budding trad climber) who lives and trains in Boulder, CO. She's climbed V13 and she won the Dark Horse comp in 2015, but she spends most of her energy climbing outdoors and training for that. Being a full-time sponsored climber, she's able to travel often, and she's spent time in Australia, South Africa, Switzerland, Hueco Tanks, and other popular climbing destinations. I sat down with Nina to talk about how she trains, what she eats, her attitude toward climbing, and what it's like training and climbing with Alex Puccio.  
What We Talked About
Why she did highball boulders and why she doesn't anymore
Where her climbing is going
Why trad climbing is so satisfying to her
How she changed her approach to comp climbing
Who trains her
Her home training set up
What she eats and why
Related Links
Nina Williams on Instagram
Nina Williams on Facebook
Trailer for Za, a movie about Nina, Daniel, Nalle, and Dave Graham
Training Programs for You
Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

TBP 039 :: Dave MacLeod on Training, Injuries, Diet, and Fear

 
About Dave MacLeod
Dave MacLeod is one of the most famous climbers, having put up many first ascents of sport, boulder, mixed, and trad climbs. Honestly, I'm not going to do him justice with a short introduction of his climbing and career, as he's accomplished so much in his 37 years. So here's his Wikipedia page. Please read it - it's fascinating. 
What We Talked About
His climbing career
How he's trained for different projects
How mixed climbing helps him to train for sport and trad 
The mistakes most climbers make in their training
Excelling even when the pressure is on
How he deals with fear on scary routes
His secret diet (exposed! woohoo!)
Related Links
Dave's blog: www.davemacleod.blogspot.com
Dave MacLeod on Facebook
Training Programs for You
Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
 

TBP 038 :: Tom Randall on His Nerdy Training Methods

 
About Tom Randall
Tom Randall is one of the infamous Wide Boyz offwidth climbers from Sheffield, England. He's climbed 5.14 offwidth, trad, and sport climbs, and he's a professional climbing trainer as well. He and his team at Lattice Training put hard science and historical data from other climbers into their training plans and robust assessments of their clients. He's pretty nerdy, in the best way possible. 
What We Talked About
His assessment of Seth's climbing strengths and weaknesses
How he works with clients
Training for crack climbing
Pinky crack drills
Free soloing 3,000 routes
Case study of bouldering client
Sample Assessment of One of Tom's Clients
Intro to "Jack Daniels"
 
Jack is a 34 year old climber who has always been told by his friends that he has good finger strength, but never quite seems to transfer it to his projects. He either gets pumped too quickly on sport routes that feel within his redpoint ability and falls off when the moves are continuously strenuous, or on long style boulder problems he hits "The power-out wall" at about 60 seconds. He'd like to understand what factors are limiting his physical performance.
 
--> Assessment feedback for Jack Daniels
Related Links
Lattice Training: www.latticetraining.co.uk
Tom Randall on Facebook
His coaching partner, Ollie
Tom Randall on Instagram
Training Programs for You
Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Thanks for listening!

TBP 037 :: Thomasina Pidgeon on Climbing V12 at Age 40

Podcast is on iTunes is HEREDirect Download: LINKDate: December 7th, 2015
About Thomasina Pidgeon
Thomasina Pidgeon is a Canadian boulderer - one of the strongest Canadian female climbers, actually, having done over 40 boulders V11 to V12. She's also competed quite a bit, and been quite successful on national and international levels. She does this at the age of 40, all while living out of her van, which she's done since she was 19 years old, and while raising her 9 year-old daughter. 
What We Talked About
Van life and being a mom
Her training regimen designed by Steve Maisch
What's different in her climbing now that she's 40
How she trains now vs before she started competing
Her success on a high fat diet
Related Links
Thomasina's website: www.thomasinapidgeon.blogspot.com
Thomasina on Facebook
Thomasina on Instagram
Training Programs for You
Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. 
Please Review The Podcast on iTunes
Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Photo Credit
Mike Chapman
Thanks for listening!