The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

TBP 061 :: Jonathan Siegrist’s Minimal Training Regime and Meticulous Skin Care

About Jonathan Siegrist Jonathan Siegrist (or J-Star) is a 31-year-old professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. He grew up with his ever-psyched climbing dad, Bob Siegrist, trying to get him to love the sport as much as he did. He didn't really take to it until his late teens, though. Since then, he's become one of the world's most prolific sport climbers. To date, he's climbed four 5.15a's, sixteen 5.14d's and hundreds of other 5.14s. He's also bouldered up to V14, sent sketchy PG-13 and R-rated trad climbs, and has sent 5.14 trad big walls. (Read his recent write-up on Arc-teryx about his ascent of Direct Dunn Westbay, a 5.14 multi-pitch route at 13,400 feet in Rocky Mountain National Park). He's also bolted a bunch of routes of all grades in Colorado, Idaho, and beyond. Besides all that, he's one of my best friends, and I think he's one of the most motivated, positive climbers I've ever met. Aside from being an incredible climber, his genuine gratitude for life and hunger for adventure are admirable. Jonathan Siegrist Interview Details In this interview with Jonathan Siegrist, we talk about how his training has evolved since our first podcast interview a couple years ago. But mostly, we talk about his attitude towards climbing, how he takes care of his skin, and what's next for him. Why counting # of tries is pointless His meticulous skin care How to heal a split tip Body weight and performance (real talk) Why he doesn't fingerboard much anymore Bouldering as training Jonathan Siegrist Links Jonathan on Facebook Jonathan on Instagram @jonathansiegrist Jonathan's website: www.jstarinorbit.com My 1st Podcast Interview with Jonathan Videos of him climbing (lots) Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. FrictionLabs Discount FrictionLabs (my favorite chalk company by far) is offering you a discount on their awesome chalk - woot! Just visit www.frictionlabs.com/trainingbeta to get the discounts. [button link="http://frictionlabs.com/pages/training-beta" color="green" size="large" type="" shape="" target="_self" title="" gradient_colors="|" gradient_hover_colors="|" accent_color="" accent_hover_color="" bevel_color="" border_width="1px" shadow="" icon="" icon_divider="yes" icon_position="left" modal="" animation_type="0" animation_direction="down" animation_speed="0.1" class="" id=""]Get Some Chalk[/button]   Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)  

TBP 060 :: Sam Elias on Taming His Emotions to Climb Harder

About Sam Elias One of my first memories of Sam Elias was this: he was climbing on The Crew (14c) in Rifle, and he'd skipped 3 clips in a row on the top half. He was climbing to the death, screaming with every move, and then he fell and came dangerously close to being impaled by a tree right below the route. That tree has since been removed, and Sam has since sent the route. I think that scene personifies Sam Elias: He tries really fucking hard, he's ballsy, he's intense, and he sends hard rock climbs. When I came to know Sam a little better, I found while he's all of those things, he's also sensitive, introspective, and intelligent.  He recently did the Black Diamond training bootcamp with Dan Mirsky and Joe Kinder, being coached for several 3-week stints by Kris Peters and Justen Sjong. Since those training sessions, Sam has been climbing better than ever, sending routes quickly that he'd put years of work into prior to training.  He's sent up to 5.14c sport climbs, he's a competitive ice and mixed climber, and he summited Mount Everest, so he's an all-around excellent athlete.  Sam Elias Interview Details In this interview, we talk about what sets him apart as an athlete, how his emotions sometimes have gotten the best of him (as many of us can relate with), and what he's done in the past couple years to calm his anger and anxiety so that he can be a happier person and a better climber. We also talk about how he trained with Kris and Justen and what he's been doing to train since then.  Working with a sports psychologist "Flow state" climbing Work/climbing balance Success after BD Bootcamp Diet   Sam Elias Links Sam on Facebook Sam on Instagram @bookofsamuel Sam's website: www.bookofsamuel.com Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

TBP 059 :: Access Fund on Going from Gym to Crag Responsibly

About The Access Fund The Access Fund is an organization dedicated to keeping climbing areas open for climbers while keeping land owners happy with those climbers. Since 1981, the organization has been helping to end disputes between climbers and landowners and buying climbing land and making it available for us, among many other things. For a full history and overview of the Access Fund, go to this page.  Often unnoticed by us climbers, these passionate people have worked hard to keep places like the Red River Gorge and Hueco Tanks open to us. From their site... "Since 1990, the Access Fund has assisted with 59 acquisitions through the Access Fund Climbing Preservation Grant Program and the Access Fund Climbing Conservation Loan Program, helping to preserve over 16,303 acres of land for climbing." See a list of their many good deeds here.  Rock Project They also organize something called the Rock Project, where influential climbers teach other climbers how to responsibly and safely go from climbing in a gym setting to climbing outdoors. This is mostly what I wanted to talk to them about, since there's a growing influx of new climbers all over the world, some of whom are doing unsafe and/or unsavory things at the cliffs.  My Talk with the Access Fund In this interview, I talked with Brady Robinson, the Executive Director, and Travis Herbert, the Education Director of the Access Fund. We covered a lot of topics, including: Their recent access work Poop disposal at the crag Smoking at climbing areas Stashing pads Music at climbing areas Cutting down trees Putting up new routes And lots of other goodies. If you're new-ish to climbing - or even if you think you know everything about etiquette, please listen to this interview. If we all got on the same page about these things, climbing areas would be much safer and even more of a friendly place than they already are.  Access Fund Links Give to the Access Fund: www.accessfund.org Educate Yourself about Etiquette and Environmental issues Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. FrictionLabs Discount FrictionLabs (my favorite chalk company by far) is offering you a discount on their awesome chalk - woot! Just visit www.frictionlabs.com/trainingbeta to get the discounts. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)  

Ask Kris 011 :: Online Training Vs In-Person Training

Date: July 15th, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page Online Training Vs In-Person Training for Climbing This week in our Ask Kris episode, we talked about the pros and cons of 3 different training types: In-person training with a coach one-on-one Online training with a coach one-on-one Online training without a coach one-on-one Hopefully this will shed some light on what you should do for yourself if you're confused about what option to go with.  More Details about The Talk Cost of each option Who should definitely get one-on-one work Who could benefit from an online training program New upcoming training options on TrainingBeta Want Help With Your Training? If you're one of those people who could benefit from a pre-made training program, these are our most popular programs created by Kris Peters. They're about $15/month and you get 3 unique workouts every week.  Bouldering Training Program   Route Training Program Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Transcript  Coming soon! m6bgj7z6

TBP 058 :: Joe Kinder on The BD Bootcamp, Route Development, and Being a Pro

Date: July 11th, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page About Joe Kinder This is an interview with Joe Kinder, a 36-year-old climber from New Hampshire who was one of our sport's first professional (aka paid) athletes. He's climbed up to 5.14+ sport and 5.13+ trad, and he's given back much to the sport by developing a whole lot of new routes all over the US. He's well known for his consistently high level of psyche for climbing, and for being a genuinely good person and fellow climber at any crag. Joe, Sam Elias, and Dan Mirsky recently completed the BD Training Bootcamp, where they lived and trained together in Golden, CO for several weeks at a time while being coached by Kris Peters and Justen Sjong. They all saw a lot of success after the bootcamp sessions, and I talked to Joe about what he accomplished after the bootcamp and how he's changing his overall training because of it.     About Our Talk In this interview we talked about his history with climbing, growing up with Dave Graham, why he develops routes, training, diet, and lots more.   BD bootcamp results Route development Moonboard training Making a living as a sponsored athlete Diet and alcohol Goals of 5.15 Joe Kinder Links Joe's experience with the BD Bootcamp (Video) Joe sending Maquina Muerte in Spain, 5.14d  (Video) Joe in 30 Days in Norway (Video) Joe on Instagram Joe on Facebook Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.   Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Transcript   Coming soon!

Ask Kris 010 :: Training on a Time Budget

Date: June 23rd, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page Training for Climbing on A Time Budget This week, in our tenth mini Ask Kris episode, we talked about how you can train at home or in the gym on a time budget. We talk about what boulderers should focus on as opposed to route climbers, and how you can train at home or in the gym in less than an hour 2 or 3 times a week. More Details about The Talk Quickie power endurance drills When to do circuit training Don't forget about abs! Climbing should be the focus Freebie Home Workout This workout is the same one I posted on the last Ask Kris episode about efficient home workouts, but I figured it's pertinent to this episode, too. So if you didn't do it last time, go get it this time! This is a circuit workout, so do all of the exercises below without rest, then rest as suggested below, then repeat. Regarding this workout, Kris told me, "My client in Europe did it this morning and said it's the hardest workout he's ever done," so, uh, have fun with this... Home Wall: laps - 10 minutes without touching the ground (Jug holds for shake outs and rest every 2 or 3 minutes) Push Jerk (Video): 40-90 lbs (depending on ability), 20 reps Toes To Bar (Video): 20 reps Hang Board Pull Ups : 10 reps on edge (size depends on ability) Farmers Walk (Video) (with kettle bells or dumbbells) : 1 minute with 50-100% of bodyweight total. Take quick breaks if absolutely necessary. Rest: 3-5 minutes Sets: 4-6 Enjoy! Want Help With Your Training? Each of these training programs contains workouts that are 2 hours or less in duration 3 days per week. We tried to cater to those people who don't have all day to train. They'll get you stronger and more fit without breaking your soul ;) Bouldering Training Program   Route Training Program Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Transcript  Coming soon!

TBP 057 :: Joshua Rucci Compares Training College Athletes to Climbers

About Joshua Rucci This is an interview with Joshua Rucci, a collegiate Strength and Conditioning Coach in the Southeastern Conference (in Athens). He currently coaches women's basketball and women's gymnastics, and he has experience coaching all kinds of athletes, including the Chicago Bulls. He has always been passionate about helping athletes get better and reach their potential. Upon arriving to the Southeast, Joshua quickly realized that his days of team sports were over and that he belonged in the woods mountain biking and climbing. Joshua entered the climbing game later in life at the ripe old age of 24 and for the past decade has been training to transform his body from a 200lb college lacrosse player to a 155lb rock climber. Joshua’s progression has been slow and steady up to 5.13 sport and double digit boulders with limited interruption from injury or major setbacks. Amidst having to work long hours as a coach, Joshua has effectively been able to manage his time to accommodate training, getting to the crag, work, and a new addition to the family. Certifications and Degrees Joshua’s certifications include NSCA CSCS, NASM PES, SFG Level 2, FMS Level 1, and he completed his undergraduate degree at BGSU in exercise science and completed his graduate work at UGA in motor behavior. Articles by Joshua Rucci on TrainingBeta Joshua is passionate about strength and conditioning as well as climbing, and he's written a good handful of articles for TrainingBeta. Why Do I Suck at Climbing Some Days? Why Do I Suck at Climbing Some Days Part 2: Readiness Monitoring Why Do I Suck at Climbing Some Days Part 3: Efficient Training  Skill Acquisition and Technique How Breathing Can Increase Your Strength and Power  Periodized Training for Climbing Through his blog entries he hopes to bring the two worlds together to help climbers utilize the science and practical training that he employs with his athletes. About Our Talk In this interview we covered a lot of bases, including how training for gymnastics relates with training for climbing, and much more... Climbers generally lack regimented training, as opposed to other sports Doing more isn't necessarily better How long it takes to see results Why strength training is so important in every sport Will you bulk up if you lift? Kettlebell workout for you Climbing drills for different levels of climbers Should you train to failure or is that dumb? Joshua Rucci Links Joshua at University of Georgia - Athens (bio) Joshua climbing (vimeo) Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

Ask Kris 009 :: Efficient Home Training for Climbing

Efficient Home Training for Climbing This week, in our ninth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how you can train at home efficiently, no matter what equipment you have to work with. We go through a few scenarios, ranging from a guy Kris worked with who had only a few basic pieces of equipment, all the way up to someone who has a home wall, weights, and other equipment at home.  He also gives you a few workouts you can do at home.  More Details about The Talk How to train with only rings and a few weights How to train with a home wall The optimal home set-up Several workouts you can do at home Freebie Home Workout This is a circuit workout, so do all of the exercises below without rest, then rest as suggested below, then repeat. Regarding this workout, Kris told me, "My client in Europe did it this morning and said it's the hardest workout he's ever done," so, uh, have fun with this... Home Wall: laps - 10 minutes without touching the ground (Jug holds for shake outs and rest every 2 or 3 minutes) Push Jerk (Video): 40-90 lbs (depending on ability), 20 reps Toes To Bar (Video): 20 reps Hang Board Pull Ups : 10 reps on edge (size depends on ability) Farmers Walk (Video) (with kettle bells or dumbbells) : 1 minute with 50-100% of bodyweight total. Take quick breaks if absolutely necessary. Rest: 3-5 minutes Sets: 4-6 Enjoy! Want Help With Your Training? If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our most popular training programs written by Kris Peters. Bouldering Training Program   Route Training Program Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

TBP 056 :: Our Shoulder Surgeon (Dr. Tom Hackett) on Shoulder Injuries

About Dr. Tom Hackett This is an interview with Dr. Tom Hackett, a shoulder, elbow, and knee surgeon who performed all three of my husband's and my shoulder surgeries. Dr. Hackett works out of the acclaimed Steadman Clinic in Vail, Colorado, and has extensive training in arthroscopic treatment of sports-related injuries. Before he was a surgeon, he worked as a mountaineer and a climbing guide, so he knows a lot about what climbers actually do with their bodies, unlike many other orthopedic docs.  In our experiences with him, he's taken our climbing goals into strong consideration when deciding how to treat our shoulders, making sure to give us the best chances of fully recovering as possible. He uses what seem to be the most advanced and specialized techniques in arthroscopic surgery, and he discusses the fact that some other docs are falling behind in that regard. More About Our Talk The most common injuries in climbers, and how to treat them How to find the best surgeon for your shoulder The differences between his techniques and the old ways The different surgeries for different injuries Recovery times and what to expect What you really can and can't tell from an MRI Alternative treatments for shoulder injuries Dr. Tom Hackett Links Dr. Hackett's website: www.doctorhackett.com Dr. Hackett on "The Dr.'s" as one the "Most Beautiful Male Doctors in America" (Video) Dr. Hackett on the U.S. Snowboarding team (article) Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

Ask Kris 008 :: Heart Rate Monitors and Lactic Acid Thresholds

How to Use A Heart Rate Monitor for Training and How to Increase Your Lactic Acid Threshold This week, in our eighth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about two related topics: lactic acid thresholds and heart rate monitor training. Lactic acid is basically the stuff that builds up in your body to make you feel "pumped", and it comes partially from having a high heart rate during activity.  In terms of lactic acid, we talk about: how you can increase your lactic acid threshold how a climber might test their lactic acid threshold just like runners do what to do with that information and how to decrease the lactic acid build-up while you're climbing  One of the big ways to decrease lactic acid build-up while you're climbing is to decrease your heart rate while you're climbing, and one way to train that is with a heart rate monitor. Regarding training with a heart rate monitor, we talk about: how to train with a heart rate monitor at what level of your max heart rate you should be training what kinds of workouts you can do to train at difference percentages of your max how monitoring your heart rate helps you avoid overtraining This was one of my favorite talks with Kris because it's one of the few training tactics in climbing that are completely numbers-based and easily tracked and monitored. I hope you get something out of this one! I'm looking into getting a heart rate monitor right now myself... Want Help With Your Training? If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our most popular training programs written by Kris Peters. Bouldering Training Program   Route Training Program Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)