The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson

I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about a simple yet effective finger strength protocol that requires no weights or pulleys.

TBP 132: 5 Common Training Mistakes Climbers Make - Alex Bridgewater and Charlie Manganiello

I talk with Charlie Manganiello and Alex Bridgewater of ClimbStrong.com about the most common mistakes they see climbers making with their training.

TBP 131: James Lucas on Improving His Bouldering by.... Bouldering More

I talk with James Lucas about how he became a much stronger boulderer just by climbing outside more and learning how to project more efficiently.

TBP 130 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Elbow Injuries

In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent elbow injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.

TBP 129: Josh Larson on Prepping the US Team for World Cups and the Olympics

I talk with Josh Larson, Head Coach of the US National Climbing Team, about how USA Climbing is helping to prepare athletes for World Cups and the Olympics.

TBP 128 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s Surprising Methodologies for Healing Tendons

I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about how to heal common tendon injuries in climbers using heavy isometric exercises and other surprising methodologies.

TBP 127: Sierra Blair Coyle on Training, Modeling, and Online Negativity

Professional climber Sierra Blair-Coyle talks about training for national & world cup comps, her modeling career, and how she deals with online negativity.

TBP 126: How Kyle Lindsay Trained to Send His First 13a after A 5.12 Plateau

Kyle Lindsay tells us how he went from a 5.12 plateau to sending his first 2 5.13a's by changing up his training. We also talk about the mental barriers to climbing 5.13a and how his diet helped him become stronger.

TBP 125: Jonathan Siegrist’s Prep and Process for Planta de Shiva 5.15b

I talk with Jonathan about how he prepared for la Planta de Shiva and his epically pumped send of it. He also asks me about my contrasting experience of climbing in Spain, wherein I failed to send my own project.

TBP 124: Shaina Savoy on Going from 12a to 13a in 6 Months

Our TrainingBeta Instagram Manager, Shaina Savoy, talks about how she went from 12a to 13a in 6 months and how she tames negative self-talk while climbing.