The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

TBP 167: Coach Lauren Abernathy on Succeeding at More Than One Sport

About Lauren Abernathy Lauren Abernathy is a climbing coach out of Salt Lake City who recently left her corporate job to be a full-time coach. You can find her at www.goodsprayclimbing.com. In this interview we talk about how her transition to being a full-time coach has been for her (spoiler: it’s going really well and she loves it). Lauren is a passionate skier as well as a climber, so we also talk about how she’s learned to effectively do both at the same time. She’s had some great success with her clients, many of whom don’t have much time for training, so she lets us in on some tips for how to train when you’re super busy with other stuff. This one is full of little nuggets of wisdom that you can apply to your life right now, and Lauren’s excitement and passion for climbing is infectious. I really enjoyed talking with her. If you want to learn more from Lauren… She’s offering $100 off her new Crush It: Sport Climbing training program right now. Or you can check out her other services on her site.       Lauren Abernathy Interview Details Going from corporate world to full-time climbing coach How to ski and train for climbing at the same time Minimalist finger strength training success stories Tips for busy climbers on how to fit training into schedule The biggest lessons she’s learned through coaching people       Lauren Abernathy Links  www.goodsprayclimbing.com Instagram: @goodspraycoaching Her new sport climbing training program             Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

TBP 166: ClimbWell Founders on Balancing Climbing and Life

About ClimbWell ClimbWell is a new organization founded by Remy Franklin, Gaby Colletta, and Blake Cason whose mission is to provide resources for climbers to help them grow in their climbing and in life in general. Remy is a life coach, Gaby is a Meditation + Yoga Instructor and Ayurvedic Health Counselor, and Blake is a Wellness Coach, and they are all passionate about climbing. They have a 4-day retreat coming up in April in Veyo, Utah that will help climbers with the following topics: Befriending Fear Performance Climbing Rock-Life Balance Art of Attention Successful Climbing Goals Yoga for Climbers They’re offering 10% off for TrainingBeta listeners using the code “trainingbeta10” and you can find more about the event in the link below: LEARN MORE ABOUT THE CLIMBWELL RETREAT   I wanted to ask them about the basics of what they’ll be teaching at the retreat, so I asked all 3 of them to be on the show. All of these topics are so relevant to all of us, but we focused a lot on finding balance in your life while also being passionate about climbing. Please visit their website to find out more about what they teach and about the retreat at www.climbwell.co.   ClimbWell Interview Details What people will get out of the retreat Finding balance in your life while being passionate about climbing Dealing with fear in climbing Wheel of Life Coaching Tool Climbing as an addiction – how to find balance How are values can guide our actions appropriately Visualization practice How to find happiness How to stop being so black and white about climbing and life in general   ClimbWell Links  ClimbWell Retreat (Use “trainingbeta10” for 10% off): www.climbwell.co/retreat Climbwell Website: www.climbwell.co Gaby’s personal website: www.gabycolletta.com Remy’s personal website: www.remyfranklin.com Blake’s personal website: www.startyourpivot.com Instagram: @climbwell.co Remy’s 1st interview on TrainingBeta       Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta… Personal Coaching Online For Boulderers of All Abilities For Route Climbers of All Abilities Finger Strength  All of our Training Programs       Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.     Transcript Coming soon…

TBP 165: Matt Pincus on Training for Bouldering

About Matt Pincus Announcement: Matt recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you’ll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program. In this interview, I talk with Matt Pincus about how to train for bouldering and we explain our new bouldering training program. Matt is our in-house Remote Climbing Coach at TrainingBeta, and he’s an expert at training for bouldering, having sent up to V12 and helped his clients make huge gains. Matt and I recently created a new Bouldering Training Program using all of the knowledge Matt has gained through seminars, studying, and working with clients since 2017. In this interview, we talk about the methods he uses with his clients and how the bouldering training program is structured. Whether you use our new bouldering training program or not, this interview will help you understand how to structure a training program aimed at improving bouldering strength, power, and work capacity. CHECK OUT THE NEW BOULDERING PROGRAM       Matt Pincus Interview Details Our new training program and why we changed it Getting away from training according to grades and more according to training experience Some examples of successful programs with his clients How to structure an effective bouldering training program How to level up your training over time Why to train strength, power, skills, and power capacity all at once How to train while trying to perform well outside       Matt Pincus Interview Links  New Bouldering Program Train with Matt: www.trainingbeta.com/matt Matt’s Instagram: @mpincus87       Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… Bouldering Training Program Finger Training Programs (code: “home” for 25% off) Injury Protocols All of our training programs             Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

TBP 164 :: Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn on Getting through Injuries without Losing Your Mind

About Alex Stiger Coach Alex Stiger recently had surgery on her finger to repair a ligament she tore when she accidentally smashed it on a hold while bouldering. I also just had surgery on my wrist (same surgeon, one month apart), so we’ve been in almost daily communication about our progress, frustrations, and small victories as we recover. Between the two of us, we’ve had a handful of pretty serious injuries, so we thought we’d discuss how we’ve dealt with those setbacks and the lessons we’ve learned along the way. It can be difficult to stay motivated and take care of yourself when all you really want to be doing is climbing. It can feel sort of like punishment sometimes, but the main things to remember are that you’ll get through it and you can (usually) become just as strong or stronger than you were pre-injury. In the meantime, we’ll tell you how we have learned to honestly enjoy being injured sometimes. Alex Stiger is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, and Head Coach at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder Colorado. Alex spends most of her week working with clients of all levels and ages to help them reach their climbing goals. She has climbed 5.13d and is working towards her goal of climbing 5.14. If you’d like to work with her doing remote coaching, you can find more info on that at www.trainingbeta.com/alex.       Alex Stiger Interview Details Brief overview of our injuries What our recovery times are/were What we’ve been doing to stay psyched and happy despite injury Why it’s important to still be around climbing if it’s part of your social life Strengthening other weaknesses while your injury heals The frustrations of the medical industry Why we wish we would’ve sought help earlier       Alex Stiger Interview Links  Work with Alex as your coach  Instagram: @alex.stiger 1st Interview with Alex on the podcast 2nd Interview with Alex: How Getting Stronger Made Her a Better Coach    

TBP 163 :: Eric Hörst on Training for Climbers Over 35

About Eric Hörst In this episode, I talk to Eric Hörst about how older climbers (over 35) can change their training to avoid injury and fatigue while still being as strong as ever. Eric Hörst is a well-known climbing trainer, having written some of the most popular books on the topic, including How to Climb 5.12, Training for Climbing, and Maximum Climbing. He’s a climber in his 50’s who still climbs as hard as ever (5.13 redpoints) due to his smart training methods, which he’s catered to himself to fit his mature body. His 2 sons are living proof of his training methods, regularly climbing 5.14’s by the time they were each 11 years old. Eric keeps an active blog on training for climbing, aptly named www.trainingforclimbing.com. He also runs the company Physivantage, which sells supplements for athletes. My New Puppy   I said I would put a photo up of our new puppy (we don’t have her yet) and here she is! She’s a heeler/border collie mix, just like our other dog. We get her in three weeks and we are SO EXCITED!     Eric Hörst Interview Details How to support recovery How to train when you’re over the age of 35 Physiological changes that happen as you age How to slow the aging process How to know if you’re training too much Why you shouldn’t be sore every day The importance of sleep Bloodwork to consider Why your ability to recover declines         Eric Hörst Links www.trainingforclimbing.com www.physivantage.com Instagram: @training4climbing and @physivantage       Rock Climbing Training Programs  Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta… At-Home Training Program Personal Training Online Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength Programs All of our training programs

TBP 162 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers

About Tyler Nelson Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for endurance climbing. Normally, we’re training strength or strength endurance on the hangboard by hanging with bodyweight, a pulley system, or weight attached to our bodies. However, Tyler talks about how we can just pull on the hangboard, without our feet leaving the ground, and increase our reps in order to train for long, endurance climbs. Tyler recently wrote an article on this topic for TrainingBeta, called To Pull or Hang, and this interview is a supplement to that article. If you haven’t read it yet, and you’re interested in this topic, I highly recommend that you give it a read before or after listening to this interview. Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you: Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also teaches anatomy and physiology at a local college in Utah and is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family.   You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries. I met Tyler at Steve Bechtel’s first Performance Climbing Coach Seminar in Lander in May of 2017, where we were both instructors. Since then I’ve done 4 more seminars and 7 other podcast episodes with him. You could say he’s a bit of a staple around here. He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training. Other Episodes with Tyler TBP 155: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries     Tyler Nelson Interview Details How to change finger training to focus on endurance Concentric pulling rather than hanging Results he’s seeing with clients Whether this method creates more injury When to do this during training/performance cycles Nerdy parts of the research on this Why people shake when they’re trying hard Finger curls vs finger rolls Protocol for intermediate climber   Tyler Nelson Links Article by Tyler about training fingers for endurance Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store Do a consultation with Tyler Instagram: @c4hp Facebook: @camp4chiropractic Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.

TBP 161 :: Madeleine Crane on Overcoming the Fear of Falling

About Madeleine Crane Madeleine Crane is a sport psychologist (M.Sc.) and systemic coach located in Hohenems, Austria. She is the founder and CEO of ClimbingPsychology.com and the creator of the Fear of Falling Masterclass for Climbers. Madeleine has a Masters degree in psychology from the University of Innsbruck and specializes in sport psychology. Due to her personal background in climbing, her main focus is on the psychology in climbing. She has been climbing, learning and exploring for as long as she can remember. Throughout the past decade, she travelled the world representing Austria at youth climbing competitions and later on in the one or other Bouldering World Cup. Nowadays you can still find her climbing in the gym or outdoors as often as possible. She has done lead climbs and boulders in the 8th grade outside (Font & French grades). Fear of Falling Masterclass Discount Madeleine recently published a Fear of Falling Masterclass for Climbers, which you can purchase at any time to work through your fears of falling. Madeleine is also giving TrainingBeta listeners $60 off with code #TRAININGBETA. I asked her to be on the podcast because sometimes the fear of falling keeps us from reaching our potential as climbers; it’s so important to work through it if it’s holding you back. So in this interview we discussed the different reasons that climbers are afraid of falling and, using the tenets of her masterclass, how we can overcome those fears. CHECK OUT THE MASTERCLASS   Madeleine Crane Interview Details How sport psychology helped her as a competition climber Reasons people are afraid to fall Overview of masterclass Understanding your fear Is your fear rational? Steps she takes to feel comfortable lead climbing Becoming aware of your fear responses Trusting your climbing partner What you can do every day to help fear while climbing Breathing, mantras, and meditations My own strategies for dealing with fear   Madeleine Crane Links  www.climbingpsychology.com Fear of Fallinf Masterclass: www.climbingpsychology.com use code #TRAININGBETA for $60 off Instagram: @climbingpsychology Work with Madeleine   Rock Climbing Training Programs  Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta… At-Home Training Program Personal Training Online Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength Programs All of our training programs   Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

TBP 160 :: Dietitian Marisa Michael Explains Intuitive Eating

About Marisa Michael Marisa Michael is a dietitian, a personal trainer, and an athlete. She’s been a dietitian for 18 years and has a private practice at RealNutritionLLC.com where she helps athletes optimize nutrition for sports performance, from recreational to elite. While she has mainly focused on running and triathlons, 6 years ago when her son got into climbing, she followed suit. The reason I wanted to speak with Marisa is that she has a lot of knowledge about Intuitive Eating, which is a popular topic right now. She gives us an explanation of exactly what it is and how it can be used to improve our health and our relationship with food.     Marisa Michael Interview Details 10 Principles of Intuitive Eating Who it’s helpful for Who it may not work for Intuitive Eating and Caffeine Usage Eating Disorders and Intuitive Eating “Health at Every Size” Discussion Weight Loss Goals and Intuitive Eating     Marisa Michael Links  Website: realnutritionllc.com Instagram: @realnutritiondietitian Marisa’s new book: Nutrition for Climbers: Fuel for the Send BOOKS ON INTUITIVE EATING Intuitive Eating by Evelyn Tribole Health at Every Size by Linda Bacon Anti-Diet by Christy Harrison     Rock Climbing Training Programs  Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta… At-Home Training Program Personal Training Online Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength Programs All of our training programs         Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.  

TBP 159: Alex Stiger on How Climbing Harder Made Her A Better Coach

About Alex Stiger Alex Stiger is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, and Head Coach at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder Colorado. Alex spends most of her week working with clients of all levels and ages to help them reach their climbing goals. She has climbed 5.13d and is currently working towards her goal of climbing 5.14. Beyond all of that, though, Alex is one of my best friends and a super dedicated trainer/coach. I’ve watched her improve her climbing exponentially over the last 5 years through efficient and specific training. I wanted to have her on the show again to talk about how her coaching has evolved as she has, and how she’s come back strong after difficult injuries. You’ll be hearing more from Alex on TrainingBeta soon, so stay tuned for that.     Alex Stiger Interview Details Difference between her coaching as a 5.13a climber and now as a 5.13d climber Overcoming big shoulder injury to come back strong How she improved her climbing so much More assessments, fewer assumptions in training How more rest helped her climb harder Why she changed her core workouts Training program coming up on TrainingBeta for women What she focuses on with older climber clients     Alex Stiger Interview Links  Instagram: @alex.stiger Article by Alex: 3 Ways to Develop Your Strongest Core 1st Interview with Alex on the podcast     Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program Finger Training Programs Injury Protocols All of our training programs         Photo Credit Photo of Alex on Homunculous 5.14a in Rifle by Jill Stompel @shmitpiex     Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.     Transcript Coming soon…

TBP 158 :: Diana Rodgers on How Meat Can Help the Environment and Our Health

About Diana Rodgers Diana Rodgers, RD, LDN is a Licensed Registered Dietitian who helps people regain their health through proper nutrition. Her website is www.sustainabledish.com, where you’ll find blog posts and other useful resources to learn more about eating well. She recently co-wrote a book with Robb Wolf called Sacred Cow: The Case for (Better) Meat: Why Well-Raised Meat Is Good for You and Good for the Planet.  She also produced a film, Sacred Cow: The Case for (Better) Meat and you can sign up to watch the world premier starting November 22, 2020 here. I watched the film and it’s fantastic. It’s all about how we’ve been raising meat all wrong since the industrial revolution, and how our mismanaged farm and ranch lands are destroying the environment. When animals are raised properly, their biproducts and behaviors actually sequester carbon, help plants grow deeper roots to maintain foliage, and make our soil much more nutritious and viable. It’s the cycle of life, and it’s been this way since there have been plants and animals. I asked Diana to be on my show because nutrition is low hanging fruit for climbers, and when I ask my clients to eat more protein, they feel better and climb better. Meat in all its forms is the most nutrient dense and efficient form of protein we can eat, but a lot of climbers have eschewed meat for the sake of the environment and their health. But I–rather, Diana–is here to tell you that meat, when raised properly and humanely, can be supremely helpful to the environment and very beneficial to your health, much to the contrary of what you’ve been told recently. In fact, plant-based diets can actually be quite detrimental to both the environment and your health. There’s a lot to learn here. Please give this one a listen. I guarantee you’ll learn something, whether you’re a plant-based or carnivore eater, or anything in between. I really appreciate you listening.       Diana Rodgers Interview Details Why meat is not actually bad for us Why plant-based diets are not good for disease Why plant-based diets are not good for the environment Why protein recommendations are way too low What’s wrong with studies done on meat What it’s so important for children to have animal products Saturated Fat and Cholesterol 101 Her thoughts on the movie Game Changers     Diana Rodgers Interview Links  Instagram: @sustainabledish Sacred Cow book Sacred Cow film Where I get my sustainable, humanely-raised meat: Wild Pastures Where you can get local sustainable, humanely-raised meat: eatwild.com More info on meat, cholesterol, saturated fat, etc ChrisKresser.com Chris Masterjohn PhD Denise Minger and the China Study     Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program Finger Training Programs Injury Protocols All of our training programs