The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

TBP 163 :: Eric Hörst on Training for Climbers Over 35

About Eric Hörst In this episode, I talk to Eric Hörst about how older climbers (over 35) can change their training to avoid injury and fatigue while still being as strong as ever. Eric Hörst is a well-known climbing trainer, having written some of the most popular books on the topic, including How to Climb 5.12, Training for Climbing, and Maximum Climbing. He’s a climber in his 50’s who still climbs as hard as ever (5.13 redpoints) due to his smart training methods, which he’s catered to himself to fit his mature body. His 2 sons are living proof of his training methods, regularly climbing 5.14’s by the time they were each 11 years old. Eric keeps an active blog on training for climbing, aptly named www.trainingforclimbing.com. He also runs the company Physivantage, which sells supplements for athletes. My New Puppy   I said I would put a photo up of our new puppy (we don’t have her yet) and here she is! She’s a heeler/border collie mix, just like our other dog. We get her in three weeks and we are SO EXCITED!     Eric Hörst Interview Details How to support recovery How to train when you’re over the age of 35 Physiological changes that happen as you age How to slow the aging process How to know if you’re training too much Why you shouldn’t be sore every day The importance of sleep Bloodwork to consider Why your ability to recover declines         Eric Hörst Links www.trainingforclimbing.com www.physivantage.com Instagram: @training4climbing and @physivantage       Rock Climbing Training Programs  Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta… At-Home Training Program Personal Training Online Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength Programs All of our training programs

TBP 162 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers

About Tyler Nelson Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for endurance climbing. Normally, we’re training strength or strength endurance on the hangboard by hanging with bodyweight, a pulley system, or weight attached to our bodies. However, Tyler talks about how we can just pull on the hangboard, without our feet leaving the ground, and increase our reps in order to train for long, endurance climbs. Tyler recently wrote an article on this topic for TrainingBeta, called To Pull or Hang, and this interview is a supplement to that article. If you haven’t read it yet, and you’re interested in this topic, I highly recommend that you give it a read before or after listening to this interview. Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you: Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also teaches anatomy and physiology at a local college in Utah and is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family.   You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries. I met Tyler at Steve Bechtel’s first Performance Climbing Coach Seminar in Lander in May of 2017, where we were both instructors. Since then I’ve done 4 more seminars and 7 other podcast episodes with him. You could say he’s a bit of a staple around here. He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training. Other Episodes with Tyler TBP 155: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries     Tyler Nelson Interview Details How to change finger training to focus on endurance Concentric pulling rather than hanging Results he’s seeing with clients Whether this method creates more injury When to do this during training/performance cycles Nerdy parts of the research on this Why people shake when they’re trying hard Finger curls vs finger rolls Protocol for intermediate climber   Tyler Nelson Links Article by Tyler about training fingers for endurance Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store Do a consultation with Tyler Instagram: @c4hp Facebook: @camp4chiropractic Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.

TBP 161 :: Madeleine Crane on Overcoming the Fear of Falling

About Madeleine Crane Madeleine Crane is a sport psychologist (M.Sc.) and systemic coach located in Hohenems, Austria. She is the founder and CEO of ClimbingPsychology.com and the creator of the Fear of Falling Masterclass for Climbers. Madeleine has a Masters degree in psychology from the University of Innsbruck and specializes in sport psychology. Due to her personal background in climbing, her main focus is on the psychology in climbing. She has been climbing, learning and exploring for as long as she can remember. Throughout the past decade, she travelled the world representing Austria at youth climbing competitions and later on in the one or other Bouldering World Cup. Nowadays you can still find her climbing in the gym or outdoors as often as possible. She has done lead climbs and boulders in the 8th grade outside (Font & French grades). Fear of Falling Masterclass Discount Madeleine recently published a Fear of Falling Masterclass for Climbers, which you can purchase at any time to work through your fears of falling. Madeleine is also giving TrainingBeta listeners $60 off with code #TRAININGBETA. I asked her to be on the podcast because sometimes the fear of falling keeps us from reaching our potential as climbers; it’s so important to work through it if it’s holding you back. So in this interview we discussed the different reasons that climbers are afraid of falling and, using the tenets of her masterclass, how we can overcome those fears. CHECK OUT THE MASTERCLASS   Madeleine Crane Interview Details How sport psychology helped her as a competition climber Reasons people are afraid to fall Overview of masterclass Understanding your fear Is your fear rational? Steps she takes to feel comfortable lead climbing Becoming aware of your fear responses Trusting your climbing partner What you can do every day to help fear while climbing Breathing, mantras, and meditations My own strategies for dealing with fear   Madeleine Crane Links  www.climbingpsychology.com Fear of Fallinf Masterclass: www.climbingpsychology.com use code #TRAININGBETA for $60 off Instagram: @climbingpsychology Work with Madeleine   Rock Climbing Training Programs  Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta… At-Home Training Program Personal Training Online Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength Programs All of our training programs   Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

TBP 160 :: Dietitian Marisa Michael Explains Intuitive Eating

About Marisa Michael Marisa Michael is a dietitian, a personal trainer, and an athlete. She’s been a dietitian for 18 years and has a private practice at RealNutritionLLC.com where she helps athletes optimize nutrition for sports performance, from recreational to elite. While she has mainly focused on running and triathlons, 6 years ago when her son got into climbing, she followed suit. The reason I wanted to speak with Marisa is that she has a lot of knowledge about Intuitive Eating, which is a popular topic right now. She gives us an explanation of exactly what it is and how it can be used to improve our health and our relationship with food.     Marisa Michael Interview Details 10 Principles of Intuitive Eating Who it’s helpful for Who it may not work for Intuitive Eating and Caffeine Usage Eating Disorders and Intuitive Eating “Health at Every Size” Discussion Weight Loss Goals and Intuitive Eating     Marisa Michael Links  Website: realnutritionllc.com Instagram: @realnutritiondietitian Marisa’s new book: Nutrition for Climbers: Fuel for the Send BOOKS ON INTUITIVE EATING Intuitive Eating by Evelyn Tribole Health at Every Size by Linda Bacon Anti-Diet by Christy Harrison     Rock Climbing Training Programs  Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta… At-Home Training Program Personal Training Online Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength Programs All of our training programs         Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.  

TBP 159: Alex Stiger on How Climbing Harder Made Her A Better Coach

About Alex Stiger Alex Stiger is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, and Head Coach at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder Colorado. Alex spends most of her week working with clients of all levels and ages to help them reach their climbing goals. She has climbed 5.13d and is currently working towards her goal of climbing 5.14. Beyond all of that, though, Alex is one of my best friends and a super dedicated trainer/coach. I’ve watched her improve her climbing exponentially over the last 5 years through efficient and specific training. I wanted to have her on the show again to talk about how her coaching has evolved as she has, and how she’s come back strong after difficult injuries. You’ll be hearing more from Alex on TrainingBeta soon, so stay tuned for that.     Alex Stiger Interview Details Difference between her coaching as a 5.13a climber and now as a 5.13d climber Overcoming big shoulder injury to come back strong How she improved her climbing so much More assessments, fewer assumptions in training How more rest helped her climb harder Why she changed her core workouts Training program coming up on TrainingBeta for women What she focuses on with older climber clients     Alex Stiger Interview Links  Instagram: @alex.stiger Article by Alex: 3 Ways to Develop Your Strongest Core 1st Interview with Alex on the podcast     Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program Finger Training Programs Injury Protocols All of our training programs         Photo Credit Photo of Alex on Homunculous 5.14a in Rifle by Jill Stompel @shmitpiex     Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.     Transcript Coming soon…

TBP 158 :: Diana Rodgers on How Meat Can Help the Environment and Our Health

About Diana Rodgers Diana Rodgers, RD, LDN is a Licensed Registered Dietitian who helps people regain their health through proper nutrition. Her website is www.sustainabledish.com, where you’ll find blog posts and other useful resources to learn more about eating well. She recently co-wrote a book with Robb Wolf called Sacred Cow: The Case for (Better) Meat: Why Well-Raised Meat Is Good for You and Good for the Planet.  She also produced a film, Sacred Cow: The Case for (Better) Meat and you can sign up to watch the world premier starting November 22, 2020 here. I watched the film and it’s fantastic. It’s all about how we’ve been raising meat all wrong since the industrial revolution, and how our mismanaged farm and ranch lands are destroying the environment. When animals are raised properly, their biproducts and behaviors actually sequester carbon, help plants grow deeper roots to maintain foliage, and make our soil much more nutritious and viable. It’s the cycle of life, and it’s been this way since there have been plants and animals. I asked Diana to be on my show because nutrition is low hanging fruit for climbers, and when I ask my clients to eat more protein, they feel better and climb better. Meat in all its forms is the most nutrient dense and efficient form of protein we can eat, but a lot of climbers have eschewed meat for the sake of the environment and their health. But I–rather, Diana–is here to tell you that meat, when raised properly and humanely, can be supremely helpful to the environment and very beneficial to your health, much to the contrary of what you’ve been told recently. In fact, plant-based diets can actually be quite detrimental to both the environment and your health. There’s a lot to learn here. Please give this one a listen. I guarantee you’ll learn something, whether you’re a plant-based or carnivore eater, or anything in between. I really appreciate you listening.       Diana Rodgers Interview Details Why meat is not actually bad for us Why plant-based diets are not good for disease Why plant-based diets are not good for the environment Why protein recommendations are way too low What’s wrong with studies done on meat What it’s so important for children to have animal products Saturated Fat and Cholesterol 101 Her thoughts on the movie Game Changers     Diana Rodgers Interview Links  Instagram: @sustainabledish Sacred Cow book Sacred Cow film Where I get my sustainable, humanely-raised meat: Wild Pastures Where you can get local sustainable, humanely-raised meat: eatwild.com More info on meat, cholesterol, saturated fat, etc ChrisKresser.com Chris Masterjohn PhD Denise Minger and the China Study     Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program Finger Training Programs Injury Protocols All of our training programs

TBP 157 :: John Brosler on Training for Speed Climbing

About John Brosler John Brosler is a 23-year-old professional climber who specializes in competitive speed climbing. He currently lives in Fort Collins, Colorado, and was featured in the highly entertaining and educational 2018 Reel Rock film “Up to Speed.” John is a sponsored climber, and according to his bio page on La Sportiva, these are some of his proudest accomplishments: 1. 6-time Open Speed National Champion 2. National speed climbing record holder 3. 2018 Pan-Amercian Speed Champion 4. 2019 U.S. Overall Team Member 5. Sending The Vice, 8B/V13 in Rocklands, South Africa Pretty impressive, right? That’s why I asked him to be on the show to talk about how he trains for speed climbing. He clearly takes his sport very seriously and he personally piqued my interest in speed climbing, so I was honored that he agreed to this interview. NOTE: This interview was recorded on March 19, 2020 in the beginning of the COVID lockdowns, so some logistics we talk about may not line up with what’s happening right now. The training information is still as relevant as ever, though. John Brosler Interview Details Speed Climbing 101: A primer on the sport Exacly how he trains day by day for speed climbing How his diet affects his training and performance Whether or not he climbs outside Why it sometimes comes down to luck who wins His thoughts on the Olympic and World Cup format John Brosler Interview Links  Instagram: @johnbrosler Rent or buy the Reel Rock film “Up to Speed” Article on GymClimber.com by John called “Speed Climbing 101” Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program Finger Training Programs Injury Protocols All of our training programs       Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.  

TBP 156 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Hip Injuries

Interview Details: Dr. Jared Vagy on Hip Injuries Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist, and he’s a climber who’s incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about common hip injuries in climbers and what to do about them. It’s super in-depth and he describes exact protocols to use on hip injuries, so I hope it helps you out. More Details Why healthy hips are important for climbing What the most common hip injuries are How shoulder pain and hip pain can be related How to tell if hip pain is originating from back Specific stretches for high-stepping What to do about hip injuries   Other Interviews with Dr. Vagy Interview #1: We talked in general about how to heal injuries, but since that time he has gotten way more specific about the steps we need to take to address them. Interview #2: He talked about how to heal shoulder impingement. Interview #3: We talked about rotator cuff injuries and neck strain. Interview #4: We discussed finger pulley sprains. Interview #5: We discussed elbow injuries.   Jared Vagy Professional Credentials Dr. Vagy is an authority on climbing related injuries. He has published numerous articles on injury prevention and delivers lectures and seminars on the topic. He received his Doctorate in Physical Therapy (DPT) from the University of Southern California, ranked the number one DPT Program in the nation for the last decade by US News and World Report. He is now a professor at the University in the DPT Program. As a Doctor of Physical Therapy in clinical practice, he went on to complete a one year residency program in orthopedics and a one year fellowship program in movement science. He is a Board Certified Orthopedic Clinical Specialist and a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist.   Supporting Videos from Episode Hip Mobility Part 1   Hip Mobility Part 2     Rock Rehab Protocol Links Dr. Vagy has created 6 injury protocols using his Rock Rehab Pyramid method that are available on TrainingBeta. You can find out more about his methods by clicking on any of the links below. You can see a description of all of the protocols (which we’ve made available for $15 each) at www.trainingbeta.com/rock-rehab. Inside Elbow Pain Outside Elbow Pain Finger Pulley Sprain Shoulder Impingement Rotator Cuff Strain Neck Strain Dr. Jared Vagy Links Jared’s book, Climb Injury Free Website: www.theclimbingdoctor.com Instagram: @theclimbingdoctor     Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… Personal Training Online:  www.trainingbeta.com/mercedes For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers All of our training programs: Training Programs Page       Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.   Transcript Coming soon…

TBP 155 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training

About Tyler Nelson Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. In this interview, Tyler explains why we should be training power differently in climbing than we typically do. Normally, we’re training power at very high intensities as in the campus board. However, in climbing we need to have sustained power output over long periods of time. So he describes how to gain more true power endurance using specific techniques. Tyler recently wrote an article on this topic for TrainingBeta, called High Volume Power Training for Climbers, and this interview is a supplement to that article. If you haven’t read it yet, and you’re interested in this topic, I highly recommend that you give it a read before or after listening to this interview. Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you: Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also teaches anatomy and physiology at a local college in Utah and is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family.   You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries. I met Tyler at Steve Bechtel’s first Performance Climbing Coach Seminar in Lander in May of 2017, where we were both instructors. Since then I’ve done 4 more seminars and 6 other podcast episodes with him: TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training.     Tyler Nelson Interview Details What high volume power training is good for How it can improve your overall power and power endurance Why it’s better for sport climbers than boulderers Why it’s important to stop training when you lose power How this kind of training has helped his athletes What to know about high volume power training and how to use it Why campus boards need to have a way to take weight off     Tyler Nelson Links Article by Tyler about high volume power training Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store Do a consultation with Tyler Instagram: @c4hp Facebook: @camp4chiropractic Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.   Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program: trainingbeta.com/covid Personal Training Online:  www.trainingbeta.com/mercedes For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers All of our training programs: Training Programs Page         Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.   Transcript Coming soon.

TBP 154 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Increasing Energy Levels with Nutrition

About Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill In this episode, I had a conversation with my friend and fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, about how to increase your energy levels using food. What you consume and when you consume it can have profound effects on your energy levels, and we’ll discuss the ins and outs of all of them. Even if you don’t “struggle” with energy levels, it’s quite possible that your energy could be even more on-point than it is now, and that can be low hanging fruit in terms of your climbing performance. I’m running a Nutrition for Climbers Program from August 28th through September 25th, all about how to improve your energy levels, lean out, and fuel for performance and recovery, as well as how to deal with some of the emotional eating issues I’ve talked about on this podcast. You can enroll until this Thursday, August 27th, here. Conversation Details The topics we covered in regards to increasing your energy levels: Carb intake Protein intake Meal timing Crag days Caffeine intake Sleep Water consumption   Links My new Nutrition for Climbers program (enrollment ends 8/27/20) Do one-on-one nutrition consulting with me Alyssa Neill Instagram: @nourishment_nutrition Website: www.nourishmentnutrition.com