The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Neely Quinn on The Nugget Climbing Podcast with Steven Dimmitt

I was interviewed on the Nugget! This is a re-post of an interview with me on the Nugget Climbing Podcast with host Steven Dimmitt. I love being on the other side of an interview occasionally, and Steven is a fantastic interviewer. We had some laughs, talked about some serious stuff, and I feel a little vulnerable about how much I shared personally, honestly.  I'm an open book, but when it's recorded and put out to the world, it's a little nerve wracking! I hope you enjoy this interview and maybe get to know me a little better (than you even wanted to). Here's Steven's description of the interview from his site, and he has some other good show notes on the episode page if you're interested. Neely Quinn is the founder of TrainingBeta, and the long-time host of The TrainingBeta Podcast. We talked about Neely’s health journey and discovering paleo, not wanting a boss, why she decided to create TrainingBeta, lessons learned from hosting 160+ interviews, injuries and surgery, project piano pieces, kids vs. houses, and her new puppy named Willa. You can learn more about Neely at trainingbeta.com Show Links This episode on The Nugget Climbing Podcast website My Nutrition Program for Climbers: Nourish Work on your nutrition with me

TBP 176 :: The Art of Trying Hard in Climbing

New Running Class with Coach Alex Stiger Do you LOVE to run but don’t know how to fit it in with your climbing? In just a couple weeks, Climbing Coach Alex Stiger and Running Coach Sean Hopkins will be hosting a very affordable, 90-minute class where you’ll learn the key considerations for balancing training for climbing and running. You’ll Learn… Which strength training exercises are great for climbing and running How we can warm up appropriately to avoid injuries How running can help you perform better as a climber Template training plans for 3 running distances (5k and under, 10k, and 10k+) Sign up below and you’ll be the first to be notified when the class is ready for purchase. Get on the Wait List for the Running Class Here     The Art of Trying Hard in Climbing with Alex Stiger  In the episode, Coach Alex and I tackled the nebulous topic of trying hard in climbing. Like, really trying hard. A couple years ago, Alex spent some time working with Coach Hazel Findlay and realized that she needed to work on her own try-hard. So she went through a transformation in her mindset that led her to not only understand the importance of trying hard, but how to make it a practiced skill for herself and for her clients. Alex Stiger is a coach at Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder, CO and a Performance Climbing Coach for TrainingBeta. She’s been on numerous episodes of the podcast and will continue to be until we run out of things to talk about in climbing. She’s currently in the middle of a very successful 6-week Team Training Program with 12 students, and she’ll be taking on another team in the fall. This is the most hands-on way to work with Alex, so if you’re interested in being part of her next cohort, you can sign up here.   Trying Hard Episode Details How to make trying hard a skill instead of a windfall Why trying hard is arguably the most important part of sending What does trying hard look like? Her year-long journey with learning how to try hard List that everyone should make to qualify their own try-hard How Alex overcomes obstacles to trying hard How my husband gets himself to try hard How to deal with fear of injury due to trying hard   Show Links Take Alex’s class on Running for Climbers Join Alex’s next Team Program Work on your nutrition with Neely Have questions? Email alex@trainingbeta.com or neely@trainingbeta.com

TBP 175: Protein for Climbers 101 – How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why

Welcome to the New Nutrition Episodes I’m not sure why I haven’t done this before, but I’ll be publishing regular episodes on nutrition for climbers. Seeing as how I’m a nutrition professional, I should’ve been talking more about this topic all along! But it’s never too late, so here’s the first of many to come. A little about me, in case you didn’t know: After completing my Bachelor’s degree in Psychology and Zoology at the University of Wisconsin at Madison, I did a 4-year nutrition certificate program at Seven Bowls School of Nutrition, Nourishment, and Healing. I graduated in 2007 as a Certified Integrative Clinical Nutrition Therapist. During those 4 years, I learned about not only nutrition, but herbs, homeopathy, and other alternative practices. I’ve been seeing clients since 2007 and I’ve worked exclusively with climbers since 2013. In this episode, I talk all about protein, which is the number one issue I see in my clients’ diets. I talk about why it’s important to get enough of it as climbers and how to realistically get enough of it every day, whether you’re a meat eater, vegan or something in between. This is a recording taken from a 5-day nutrition challenge I did last year in front of a live audience. I talked for about 15 minutes on the topic and then took a bunch of questions from the audience (very common questions, so they’re quite relevant). If you’re looking for help with your own nutrition and you feel like you need personalized help, I’m taking new clients right now. I also have a program that is self-paced with 4+ hours of video from me, PDF’s, and meal plans laid out for you. You can find more information about my services and the program at www.trainingbeta.com/nutrition. You’re welcome to email me at neely@trainingbeta.com if you have any questions at all.         Episode Details Why protein is so important How to get enough of it in your diet How to sneak more protein into your breakfast What to take to the crag to eat Info on protein powder and collagen Protein for autoimmunity How much protein is in different foods       Show Links Work with me one-on-one or do my self-paced program   Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

TBP 174 :: Caroline Treadway - The Film ”Light” and Her Own Eating Disorder Struggles

About Caroline Treadway Caroline Treadway is a writer, a photographer, a film maker, and a climber. She recently released the documentary film “Light” about the eating disorder struggles of high profile rock climbers including Emily Harrington and Angie Payne. In this interview, we discuss why she made the film, what impact the film has made in her life, and then we go deeper into her own eating disorder as well as my experience with disordered eating behaviors. At the end, we even discuss what we thought about each other in times when we were both experiencing disordered eating behaviors – we’ve known each other for many years. This is an incredibly vulnerable conversation, and I want to thank Caroline for her willingness to be open about these topics and for her bravery for creating the film. According to one study, 16.5% of female rock climbers and 6% of male climbers experience some disordered eating behaviors. This is a big deal, and because shame is such a large component of disordered eating, this interview is a further attempt to destigmatize the topic and bring it into the “light.” If you have not seen the film yet, it’s amazing–I loved it–and you can watch it for free here.         Interview Details Why she made the film How the film has changed her and her career How we could approach someone (or not) who we’re worried about in regards to their eating Her experience with ED and how it affected her body and mental health How she ended up in the hospital How she would’ve wanted to be approached about her ED What we used to think of each other       Show Links Caroline on Instagram @carolinelovesphotos Light the Documentary Film on Instagram @light.thedocumentaryfilm Watch the documentary film “Light” Learn more about eating disorders and get help: www.nationaleatingdisorders.org Get nutrition help from me to feel less stressed about your diet and body image

TBP 173 :: Training Adaptations for Short and Tall Climbers, Transitioning to Outside (Q&A)

A while back I asked for questions about training and climbing for an episode that Coach Alex and I did together. Well, we got so many questions that we decided to do an entire episode answering some more of them. That full Q&A episode can be found on our Patreon page, but today I published half of the episode as a Sneak Preview on the main podcast so you can get some of that good beta, too. If you’d like to get bonus episodes from TrainingBeta, you can go over to Patreon where you can subscribe for as little as $5/month and get at least 75 minutes of extra stuff EVERY MONTH. You’ll get a Nutrition Bite, which is a short episode every month from me all about a specific nutrition topic, as well as a Team Roundtable, where Matt, Alex, and I will discuss a specific training/nutrition topic or do a Q&A like this one. There are also old episodes in the vault that I’ve never published, and I’ll be publishing those on Patreon soon. CHECK OUT THE PATREON EPISODES   Team Q&A: Training and Nutrition In this sneak preview, we answered the following questions: When to transition from indoor to outdoor climbing When to transition from toproping to lead climbing General nutrition advice for a climber who doesn’t want to log their calories/macros Training adaptations for very short climbers and very tall climbers The questions we covered in the full episode on Patreon are: Antagonist muscle training and how to work it into your program What a typical performance block looks like in terms of maintenance training and time spent trying to send Performance phase nutrition (for when you’re trying to send stuff) How to avoid takeout food with a very busy schedule

TBP 172 :: 8 Tips for a Successful Performance Phase

About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Jackson, Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. Matt created our Bouldering Training Program, which is a non-linear plan that will help you gain strength, power, skills, and work capacity. There’s also a maintenance block worked into the program so you can continue to train lightly during your performance phases. Learn More about the Bouldering Program Here   8 Tips for a Successful Performance Phase In the episode, Coach Matt and I discuss our top 8 tips for having a successful performance phase, whether that’s a climbing trip, a good weather season at your home crag, or a period of time in the gym when you’re just trying to send hard stuff. These tips are a mixture of advice for beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbers, so everyone should get something out of it. At the end of this episode I included a preview of a recent Q&A episode that Matt, Alex, and I did over on Patreon. If you’d like to get even more episodes every month in the form of Nutrition Bites (quick episodes on specific nutrition topics) and Team Talks with Coach Matt Pincus, Coach Alex Stiger, and me, you can join Patreon for that exclusive content.   Episode Details What is a performance phase? Matt’s 3 tips HAVE a performance phase Be ready to put the work in Do prep work away from the crag to maximize your climbing days My 5 tips (it was supposed to be 3, but I couldn’t help myself) Prioritize rest on a macro and micro level Fuel properly on climbing and rest days Balance mental health with sending Plan your goals, trips, and partners way in advance Redpointing tactics   Show Links Nourish: A Self-Paced Nutrition Program for Climbers Bouldering Program (Levels 1-3) to help you maintain strength during a performance phase Get more episodes every month on Patreon Have topics you want us to cover? Email matt@trainingbeta.com or neely@trainingbeta.com   Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.   Photo Credit Photo of Dru Mack by Matt Pincus @mpincus87

TBP 171 :: Training and Nutrition Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn

Support the Podcast on Patreon Nutrition and Training Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn  In this episode, Coach Alex and I answer questions from the TrainingBeta community about nutrition and training. We asked people on Instagram, email, and Facebook what they wanted to know about, and we answered as many questions as we could in about an hour. Alex is a Certified Personal Trainer, a Performance Climbing Coach, and a 5.13+ climber. She is a coach for TrainingBeta and for Movement in Boulder. She’s been training and coaching individuals and teams for over 7 years. I (Neely Quinn) am your host (more about that in a sec) and I’m a Certified Integrative Clinical Nutritional Therapist who’s been working exclusively with climbers since 2014. In the last couple episodes, Alex has been subbing in for me as host, and while she’s a fantastic podcast host, I need her to focus on coaching and creating awesome programs for you, so I’m going to slip back in as your trusty host from now on. Having her take over for a while gave me some much-needed time to figure out what direction the podcast is going. I did a ton of thinking, researching, and soul searching, and I’m back and I’m psyched! You’ll be seeing more episodes every month now that I’m re-stoked. I’ll explain more in the episode. If you’re interested in supporting my efforts with the podcast and you’d like to get even more episodes every month in the form of Nutrition Bites (quick episodes on specific nutrition topics) and group Q&A sessions with Coach Matt Pincus, Coach Alex Stiger, and me, you can join Patreon for that exclusive content.   Q&A Details How to work hangboarding in with a climbing session What the deal is with intermittent fasting and climbing/training An example meal for a rest day On-the-wall exercises to increase finger strength Maintaining fitness during a vacation How to train lockoffs   Show Links Join Alex’s new Team Program! Have questions? Email alex@trainingbeta.com or neely@trainingbeta.com

TBE 170: Joy Black On Training During Pregnancy

  In the episode, Joy explains how to stay empowered as a pregnant athlete, a brief breakdown of what changes occur during each trimester, and most importantly, she provides direction on what you should learn more about as a pregnant athlete. Joy also discusses the importance of strength training during pregnancy with key consideration of the pelvic floor, diaphragm, and deep core muscles.  She also addresses how important of a factor mindset is during pregnancy and normalizes a lot of the common hurdles that women face during the “season” of pregnancy. Joy Black, B.A., NASM CPT is a Certified Personal Trainer and Pregnancy and Postnatal Exercise Specialist/Athleticism Coach.  She is also an avid climber as well as runner and importantly to this conversation, a mother of two!       Joy Black Interview Details Important things to know as pregnant athlete Strengthening the deep core, diaphragm, and pelvic floor to support your body during pregnancy General overview on what to expect during each of the trimesters Importance of staying empowered and focusing on what you can be doing – which is a lot Considerations while climbing to help minimize additional pressure on an already strained system What is diastasis and how new research is helping women get back to strengthening the core sooner Mindset considerations and potential hurdles plus insight on how to stay focused on your own journey Pelvic Floor PT’s and why you should have one as part of your team How our bodies are incredibly resilient and how pregnancy does not mean your athletic career and goals will be limited       Joy Black Links Instagram @calliejoyblack Email:  joy@trainedbyjoy.com       Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program: trainingbeta.com/covid Personal Training Online:  www.trainingbeta.com/coaching For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities       Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training

About Tyler Nelson UPDATE: Matt Pincus recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you’ll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program. In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for our individual needs based on his latest research.  By utilizing various testing he has discovered that our hand size and ability to recover can be a factor in which protocols are likely to work best.  He also answers a lot of commonly asked questions and gives his opinion on various topics around hangboarding and more. Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you: Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family.   You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries. This is my first interaction with Tyler, apart from listening to all his other podcasts with a pen and notepad.  His ability to question what we take for granted and provide relevant research is unparalleled, and I couldn’t have been more psyched to have the opportunity to ask him a ton of questions.  While I am new to the podcast you could say Tyler is a bit of a staple around here. He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training. Other Episodes with Tyler TBP 162: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers TBP 155: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries       Tyler Nelson Interview Details How our hand size can determine what we should or shouldn’t do on a hangboard How knowing our rate of recovery can save us tons of time Results he’s seeing with clients General advice on what to do if you have a sore finger When to do this during training/performance cycles General hangboarding questions answered What forms of training he would love to see go extinct The importance of appropriate training load Explanations on exciting new research regarding connective tissue       Tyler Nelson Links Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store Do a consultation with Tyler Instagram: @c4hp Facebook: @camp4chiropractic Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.       Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program: trainingbeta.com/covid Personal Training Online:  www.trainingbeta.com/coaching For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers All of our training programs: Training Programs Page

TBP 168 :: Coach Alex Stiger on Training Methods for Females

Females in Climbing  In this episode I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how females can train more efficiently and effectively using their menstrual cycle as a guide. Alex Stiger is a dedicated climber who lives in Longmont, Colorado. She’s sent up to 5.13d and is an avid boulderer. She improved her climbing very quickly using efficient training. She is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, TRX certified, and she’s completed Stacy Sims’ Women Are Not Small Men course. In this episode we talk all about the specific needs of females in training for climbing. We cover topics like what to expect during certain weeks of your cycle, how to train during each of them, and why Alex (and so many females) was in denial about women needing to train differently than men for so long.       FREE Women’s Train Smarter Challenge Starts Next Week  On Monday, May 3rd, 2021 through Friday the 7th, Alex will be hosting a challenge for females that will help you learn how to train for your body’s specific needs. It’s completely free, and even if you can’t make the live calls we’ll send the recordings out to you. Schedule of Events Day 1: Tracking your period + How to plan your week Day 2: Myths about Women’s Strengths and Weaknesses + Workout Day 3: Female mindset – how hormones affect our performance mindset + tools to still perform our best Day 4: How (and when) Women Should Strength Train + Workout Day 5: How to use goals to create a map for success To learn more about the event and to sign up absolutely FREE, click the button below. LEARN ABOUT THE CHALLENGE FOR WOMEN       Alex Stiger Interview Details Why we can’t train like small men How changes in our hormones throughout the month can guide our training Being in denial about being a woman in sport How we can do better as women and as coaches How everything she knew about her menstrual cycle was in hindsight before Myths she’s held as a woman Fear and pain sensitivity the week before period       Alex Stiger Interview Links  Join the Challenge for Free Instagram: @alex.stiger