The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

TBP 173 :: Training Adaptations for Short and Tall Climbers, Transitioning to Outside (Q&A)

A while back I asked for questions about training and climbing for an episode that Coach Alex and I did together. Well, we got so many questions that we decided to do an entire episode answering some more of them. That full Q&A episode can be found on our Patreon page, but today I published half of the episode as a Sneak Preview on the main podcast so you can get some of that good beta, too. If you’d like to get bonus episodes from TrainingBeta, you can go over to Patreon where you can subscribe for as little as $5/month and get at least 75 minutes of extra stuff EVERY MONTH. You’ll get a Nutrition Bite, which is a short episode every month from me all about a specific nutrition topic, as well as a Team Roundtable, where Matt, Alex, and I will discuss a specific training/nutrition topic or do a Q&A like this one. There are also old episodes in the vault that I’ve never published, and I’ll be publishing those on Patreon soon. CHECK OUT THE PATREON EPISODES   Team Q&A: Training and Nutrition In this sneak preview, we answered the following questions: When to transition from indoor to outdoor climbing When to transition from toproping to lead climbing General nutrition advice for a climber who doesn’t want to log their calories/macros Training adaptations for very short climbers and very tall climbers The questions we covered in the full episode on Patreon are: Antagonist muscle training and how to work it into your program What a typical performance block looks like in terms of maintenance training and time spent trying to send Performance phase nutrition (for when you’re trying to send stuff) How to avoid takeout food with a very busy schedule

TBP 172 :: 8 Tips for a Successful Performance Phase

About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Jackson, Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. Matt created our Bouldering Training Program, which is a non-linear plan that will help you gain strength, power, skills, and work capacity. There’s also a maintenance block worked into the program so you can continue to train lightly during your performance phases. Learn More about the Bouldering Program Here   8 Tips for a Successful Performance Phase In the episode, Coach Matt and I discuss our top 8 tips for having a successful performance phase, whether that’s a climbing trip, a good weather season at your home crag, or a period of time in the gym when you’re just trying to send hard stuff. These tips are a mixture of advice for beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbers, so everyone should get something out of it. At the end of this episode I included a preview of a recent Q&A episode that Matt, Alex, and I did over on Patreon. If you’d like to get even more episodes every month in the form of Nutrition Bites (quick episodes on specific nutrition topics) and Team Talks with Coach Matt Pincus, Coach Alex Stiger, and me, you can join Patreon for that exclusive content.   Episode Details What is a performance phase? Matt’s 3 tips HAVE a performance phase Be ready to put the work in Do prep work away from the crag to maximize your climbing days My 5 tips (it was supposed to be 3, but I couldn’t help myself) Prioritize rest on a macro and micro level Fuel properly on climbing and rest days Balance mental health with sending Plan your goals, trips, and partners way in advance Redpointing tactics   Show Links Nourish: A Self-Paced Nutrition Program for Climbers Bouldering Program (Levels 1-3) to help you maintain strength during a performance phase Get more episodes every month on Patreon Have topics you want us to cover? Email matt@trainingbeta.com or neely@trainingbeta.com   Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.   Photo Credit Photo of Dru Mack by Matt Pincus @mpincus87

TBP 171 :: Training and Nutrition Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn

Support the Podcast on Patreon Nutrition and Training Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn  In this episode, Coach Alex and I answer questions from the TrainingBeta community about nutrition and training. We asked people on Instagram, email, and Facebook what they wanted to know about, and we answered as many questions as we could in about an hour. Alex is a Certified Personal Trainer, a Performance Climbing Coach, and a 5.13+ climber. She is a coach for TrainingBeta and for Movement in Boulder. She’s been training and coaching individuals and teams for over 7 years. I (Neely Quinn) am your host (more about that in a sec) and I’m a Certified Integrative Clinical Nutritional Therapist who’s been working exclusively with climbers since 2014. In the last couple episodes, Alex has been subbing in for me as host, and while she’s a fantastic podcast host, I need her to focus on coaching and creating awesome programs for you, so I’m going to slip back in as your trusty host from now on. Having her take over for a while gave me some much-needed time to figure out what direction the podcast is going. I did a ton of thinking, researching, and soul searching, and I’m back and I’m psyched! You’ll be seeing more episodes every month now that I’m re-stoked. I’ll explain more in the episode. If you’re interested in supporting my efforts with the podcast and you’d like to get even more episodes every month in the form of Nutrition Bites (quick episodes on specific nutrition topics) and group Q&A sessions with Coach Matt Pincus, Coach Alex Stiger, and me, you can join Patreon for that exclusive content.   Q&A Details How to work hangboarding in with a climbing session What the deal is with intermittent fasting and climbing/training An example meal for a rest day On-the-wall exercises to increase finger strength Maintaining fitness during a vacation How to train lockoffs   Show Links Join Alex’s new Team Program! Have questions? Email alex@trainingbeta.com or neely@trainingbeta.com

TBE 170: Joy Black On Training During Pregnancy

  In the episode, Joy explains how to stay empowered as a pregnant athlete, a brief breakdown of what changes occur during each trimester, and most importantly, she provides direction on what you should learn more about as a pregnant athlete. Joy also discusses the importance of strength training during pregnancy with key consideration of the pelvic floor, diaphragm, and deep core muscles.  She also addresses how important of a factor mindset is during pregnancy and normalizes a lot of the common hurdles that women face during the “season” of pregnancy. Joy Black, B.A., NASM CPT is a Certified Personal Trainer and Pregnancy and Postnatal Exercise Specialist/Athleticism Coach.  She is also an avid climber as well as runner and importantly to this conversation, a mother of two!       Joy Black Interview Details Important things to know as pregnant athlete Strengthening the deep core, diaphragm, and pelvic floor to support your body during pregnancy General overview on what to expect during each of the trimesters Importance of staying empowered and focusing on what you can be doing – which is a lot Considerations while climbing to help minimize additional pressure on an already strained system What is diastasis and how new research is helping women get back to strengthening the core sooner Mindset considerations and potential hurdles plus insight on how to stay focused on your own journey Pelvic Floor PT’s and why you should have one as part of your team How our bodies are incredibly resilient and how pregnancy does not mean your athletic career and goals will be limited       Joy Black Links Instagram @calliejoyblack Email:  joy@trainedbyjoy.com       Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program: trainingbeta.com/covid Personal Training Online:  www.trainingbeta.com/coaching For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities       Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training

About Tyler Nelson UPDATE: Matt Pincus recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you’ll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program. In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for our individual needs based on his latest research.  By utilizing various testing he has discovered that our hand size and ability to recover can be a factor in which protocols are likely to work best.  He also answers a lot of commonly asked questions and gives his opinion on various topics around hangboarding and more. Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you: Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family.   You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries. This is my first interaction with Tyler, apart from listening to all his other podcasts with a pen and notepad.  His ability to question what we take for granted and provide relevant research is unparalleled, and I couldn’t have been more psyched to have the opportunity to ask him a ton of questions.  While I am new to the podcast you could say Tyler is a bit of a staple around here. He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training. Other Episodes with Tyler TBP 162: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers TBP 155: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries       Tyler Nelson Interview Details How our hand size can determine what we should or shouldn’t do on a hangboard How knowing our rate of recovery can save us tons of time Results he’s seeing with clients General advice on what to do if you have a sore finger When to do this during training/performance cycles General hangboarding questions answered What forms of training he would love to see go extinct The importance of appropriate training load Explanations on exciting new research regarding connective tissue       Tyler Nelson Links Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store Do a consultation with Tyler Instagram: @c4hp Facebook: @camp4chiropractic Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.       Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program: trainingbeta.com/covid Personal Training Online:  www.trainingbeta.com/coaching For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers All of our training programs: Training Programs Page

TBP 168 :: Coach Alex Stiger on Training Methods for Females

Females in Climbing  In this episode I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how females can train more efficiently and effectively using their menstrual cycle as a guide. Alex Stiger is a dedicated climber who lives in Longmont, Colorado. She’s sent up to 5.13d and is an avid boulderer. She improved her climbing very quickly using efficient training. She is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, TRX certified, and she’s completed Stacy Sims’ Women Are Not Small Men course. In this episode we talk all about the specific needs of females in training for climbing. We cover topics like what to expect during certain weeks of your cycle, how to train during each of them, and why Alex (and so many females) was in denial about women needing to train differently than men for so long.       FREE Women’s Train Smarter Challenge Starts Next Week  On Monday, May 3rd, 2021 through Friday the 7th, Alex will be hosting a challenge for females that will help you learn how to train for your body’s specific needs. It’s completely free, and even if you can’t make the live calls we’ll send the recordings out to you. Schedule of Events Day 1: Tracking your period + How to plan your week Day 2: Myths about Women’s Strengths and Weaknesses + Workout Day 3: Female mindset – how hormones affect our performance mindset + tools to still perform our best Day 4: How (and when) Women Should Strength Train + Workout Day 5: How to use goals to create a map for success To learn more about the event and to sign up absolutely FREE, click the button below. LEARN ABOUT THE CHALLENGE FOR WOMEN       Alex Stiger Interview Details Why we can’t train like small men How changes in our hormones throughout the month can guide our training Being in denial about being a woman in sport How we can do better as women and as coaches How everything she knew about her menstrual cycle was in hindsight before Myths she’s held as a woman Fear and pain sensitivity the week before period       Alex Stiger Interview Links  Join the Challenge for Free Instagram: @alex.stiger    

TBP 167: Coach Lauren Abernathy on Succeeding at More Than One Sport

About Lauren Abernathy Lauren Abernathy is a climbing coach out of Salt Lake City who recently left her corporate job to be a full-time coach. You can find her at www.goodsprayclimbing.com. In this interview we talk about how her transition to being a full-time coach has been for her (spoiler: it’s going really well and she loves it). Lauren is a passionate skier as well as a climber, so we also talk about how she’s learned to effectively do both at the same time. She’s had some great success with her clients, many of whom don’t have much time for training, so she lets us in on some tips for how to train when you’re super busy with other stuff. This one is full of little nuggets of wisdom that you can apply to your life right now, and Lauren’s excitement and passion for climbing is infectious. I really enjoyed talking with her. If you want to learn more from Lauren… She’s offering $100 off her new Crush It: Sport Climbing training program right now. Or you can check out her other services on her site.       Lauren Abernathy Interview Details Going from corporate world to full-time climbing coach How to ski and train for climbing at the same time Minimalist finger strength training success stories Tips for busy climbers on how to fit training into schedule The biggest lessons she’s learned through coaching people       Lauren Abernathy Links  www.goodsprayclimbing.com Instagram: @goodspraycoaching Her new sport climbing training program             Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

TBP 166: ClimbWell Founders on Balancing Climbing and Life

About ClimbWell ClimbWell is a new organization founded by Remy Franklin, Gaby Colletta, and Blake Cason whose mission is to provide resources for climbers to help them grow in their climbing and in life in general. Remy is a life coach, Gaby is a Meditation + Yoga Instructor and Ayurvedic Health Counselor, and Blake is a Wellness Coach, and they are all passionate about climbing. They have a 4-day retreat coming up in April in Veyo, Utah that will help climbers with the following topics: Befriending Fear Performance Climbing Rock-Life Balance Art of Attention Successful Climbing Goals Yoga for Climbers They’re offering 10% off for TrainingBeta listeners using the code “trainingbeta10” and you can find more about the event in the link below: LEARN MORE ABOUT THE CLIMBWELL RETREAT   I wanted to ask them about the basics of what they’ll be teaching at the retreat, so I asked all 3 of them to be on the show. All of these topics are so relevant to all of us, but we focused a lot on finding balance in your life while also being passionate about climbing. Please visit their website to find out more about what they teach and about the retreat at www.climbwell.co.   ClimbWell Interview Details What people will get out of the retreat Finding balance in your life while being passionate about climbing Dealing with fear in climbing Wheel of Life Coaching Tool Climbing as an addiction – how to find balance How are values can guide our actions appropriately Visualization practice How to find happiness How to stop being so black and white about climbing and life in general   ClimbWell Links  ClimbWell Retreat (Use “trainingbeta10” for 10% off): www.climbwell.co/retreat Climbwell Website: www.climbwell.co Gaby’s personal website: www.gabycolletta.com Remy’s personal website: www.remyfranklin.com Blake’s personal website: www.startyourpivot.com Instagram: @climbwell.co Remy’s 1st interview on TrainingBeta       Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta… Personal Coaching Online For Boulderers of All Abilities For Route Climbers of All Abilities Finger Strength  All of our Training Programs       Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.     Transcript Coming soon…

TBP 165: Matt Pincus on Training for Bouldering

About Matt Pincus Announcement: Matt recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you’ll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program. In this interview, I talk with Matt Pincus about how to train for bouldering and we explain our new bouldering training program. Matt is our in-house Remote Climbing Coach at TrainingBeta, and he’s an expert at training for bouldering, having sent up to V12 and helped his clients make huge gains. Matt and I recently created a new Bouldering Training Program using all of the knowledge Matt has gained through seminars, studying, and working with clients since 2017. In this interview, we talk about the methods he uses with his clients and how the bouldering training program is structured. Whether you use our new bouldering training program or not, this interview will help you understand how to structure a training program aimed at improving bouldering strength, power, and work capacity. CHECK OUT THE NEW BOULDERING PROGRAM       Matt Pincus Interview Details Our new training program and why we changed it Getting away from training according to grades and more according to training experience Some examples of successful programs with his clients How to structure an effective bouldering training program How to level up your training over time Why to train strength, power, skills, and power capacity all at once How to train while trying to perform well outside       Matt Pincus Interview Links  New Bouldering Program Train with Matt: www.trainingbeta.com/matt Matt’s Instagram: @mpincus87       Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… Bouldering Training Program Finger Training Programs (code: “home” for 25% off) Injury Protocols All of our training programs             Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

TBP 164 :: Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn on Getting through Injuries without Losing Your Mind

About Alex Stiger Coach Alex Stiger recently had surgery on her finger to repair a ligament she tore when she accidentally smashed it on a hold while bouldering. I also just had surgery on my wrist (same surgeon, one month apart), so we’ve been in almost daily communication about our progress, frustrations, and small victories as we recover. Between the two of us, we’ve had a handful of pretty serious injuries, so we thought we’d discuss how we’ve dealt with those setbacks and the lessons we’ve learned along the way. It can be difficult to stay motivated and take care of yourself when all you really want to be doing is climbing. It can feel sort of like punishment sometimes, but the main things to remember are that you’ll get through it and you can (usually) become just as strong or stronger than you were pre-injury. In the meantime, we’ll tell you how we have learned to honestly enjoy being injured sometimes. Alex Stiger is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, and Head Coach at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder Colorado. Alex spends most of her week working with clients of all levels and ages to help them reach their climbing goals. She has climbed 5.13d and is working towards her goal of climbing 5.14. If you’d like to work with her doing remote coaching, you can find more info on that at www.trainingbeta.com/alex.       Alex Stiger Interview Details Brief overview of our injuries What our recovery times are/were What we’ve been doing to stay psyched and happy despite injury Why it’s important to still be around climbing if it’s part of your social life Strengthening other weaknesses while your injury heals The frustrations of the medical industry Why we wish we would’ve sought help earlier       Alex Stiger Interview Links  Work with Alex as your coach  Instagram: @alex.stiger 1st Interview with Alex on the podcast 2nd Interview with Alex: How Getting Stronger Made Her a Better Coach