TBP 033 :: Will Anglin on Training Efficiently

TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes 
Date: November 4th, 2015

(Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.)

About Will Anglin

 

Will Anglin is a 27 year-old climber and head climbing trainer at Earth Treks in Golden, CO. He minored in Exercise Physiology in college and is a certified personal trainer, and he's studied climbing training quite a bit. He trains people in person and online. One of the reasons I wanted to interview him is that he's not only a well-respected trainer, but also a prolific climber himself, having sent V13 and 5.14.

He has a lot to say about training, and this was a dense conversation (in the best way possible).

What we talked about:

• The importance of strength training
• Difference between strength and power
• His weekly training schedule during 50-60 hour work weeks
• Whether or not you should train to exhaustion
• Why he thinks using a weight vest during campusing is "safer" than not
• Who should be campusing
• Why he does weighted pull ups and why you should maybe not

Things We Mentioned

• Will's website
• Tension Climbing (coming soon)
• Will's article on finger strength training
• I'm doing nutrition consults one-on-one with people again on a limited basis. If you're interested, email neely@trainingbeta.com

Discount on ArmAid

If you haven't heard of the ArmAid yet, definitely give it a look-see. It's a nutcracker-type self-massage tool for your poor, overused arms, and it actually works.

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Training Programs for You

• Check out the Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
• Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
• If you'd like to place an ad on the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.

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• Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
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Photo Credit

Thanks to Matty Hong for the photo of Jon Cardwell.

Thanks for listening!